Stupid Question

[Sir-diealot]

I just wait until I get back to the house and do all my cleaning with a Rapala filet knife.  That way I can keep the meat cleaner and take immediately to The Boss Hen to wash and package.

The boss hen part would be interesting to see how it worked out here, my GF is not anti hunting or anything but she will swerve to miss a squirrel and does not like scenes in movies with animals getting hurt/killed. She eats meat just fine though. We went to see Revenant and she was sad that he killed the bear.

[Sir-diealot]

To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

[kjnengr]

To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Agreed.  And if I'm not mistaken, it's the primary wing feathers only. 

[kjnengr]

To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

Sir-diealot, visit tradgang.com http://tradgang.com/ for more info than you will ever need about setting up for traditional bow hunting.  Those guys can point you in the right direction and are willing to help.

About the carbon arrows that look like wood...... It depends on how "authentic" you want to get.  Personally, I like the carbon fiber arrows that are meant for trad bows because you don't have to worry about them being straight or off-balance. 

[Bowguy]

To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

It's no prob. There are certain glues they say are specific to certain shaft types and feather/vanes but I use fletch tire platinum on em all. It's a glue, you never tie them down. You need a burner to shape the feathers.
The trad gang advice is good , so is stykbowman. It's the leatherwall on bpwsite.
If you're just doing a compound you can use an offset which uses reg clamps. Trad I use helical always but I shoot off the shelf.

[Sir-diealot]

To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

Sir-diealot, visit tradgang.com http://tradgang.com/ for more info than you will ever need about setting up for traditional bow hunting.  Those guys can point you in the right direction and are willing to help.

About the carbon arrows that look like wood...... It depends on how "authentic" you want to get.  Personally, I like the carbon fiber arrows that are meant for trad bows because you don't have to worry about them being straight or off-balance.

Thanks, I will check out that site. One of the things that have me interested in the carbon is they don't break as much as wood and the straightness of them. Also I hear that wood is far more expensive unless you make them yourself and I know me well enough to know that I am no Bowyer.

[Sir-diealot]

To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

It's no prob. There are certain glues they say are specific to certain shaft types and feather/vanes but I use fletch tire platinum on em all. It's a glue, you never tie them down. You need a burner to shape the feathers.
The trad gang advice is good , so is stykbowman. It's the leatherwall on bpwsite.
If you're just doing a compound you can use an offset which uses reg clamps. Trad I use helical always but I shoot off the shelf.

I am interested in trying traditional again after the shoulder has healed up. My left and right was always right on the money but my elevation was all over the place. I have mentioned here before and you may have seen that I had a lot of surgeries on my eyes when I was young, as a consequence I can't seem to judge distance well which is why I don't shoot bow or gun for turkey beyond 30 yards. I had always been told to keep both eyes open when I shoot and I think that is what has caused the elevation problem, when I do go back to it I will only use one eye and try to use the tip of the arrow to aim with. I have a Ben Pearson* Cougar set at I think 45 or 50 lbs. which now seems perfect with my shoulder problems where before I always wanted to shoot heavier (Young dumb ego I guess) but now want to go lower. I have a PSE Carrera compound set at around 63 which was turned down from 70 when the shoulder problems started and I think next year if I don't like how I am doing with the recurve I will get a compound bow set 45-50 lbs at 29" draw. I currently use a Freeflight trigger release that clips to the string (The vision problem mentioned above makes it had for me to use a loop) I have some old Fred Bear broadheads that I would like to use because Fred was there with me (In spirit) when I took my first deer with an old Bear Whitetail II which I shot better than I do my PSE to be honest. My dream is to own an old Fred Bear Kodiak or a Black Widow take down bow but they are so incredibly expensive.

[Bowguy]

Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

[Sir-diealot]

Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

[Bowguy]

Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Nothing to do w release. It's closing one eye that kills binocular vision required for good range estimation. 
We're talking two dif things here trad one minute than compound I think?
If we're on the compound one decent release you'll find easy to use it a try fire hardcore.
It's not crazy expensive but has a decent trigger, breaks fairly clean and is real easy to use getting on. I bet it'd be easier than a free flight. Wouldn't chew up a serving either

[Sir-diealot]

Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Nothing to do w release. It's closing one eye that kills binocular vision required for good range estimation. 
We're talking two dif things here trad one minute than compound I think?
If we're on the compound one decent release you'll find easy to use it a try fire hardcore.
It's not crazy expensive but has a decent trigger, breaks fairly clean and is real easy to use getting on. I bet it'd be easier than a free flight. Wouldn't chew up a serving either

Not two different things, I think I just worded things in a confusing way. I was asking you if you meant closing one eye would make my elevation worse by closing one eye, you answered it in this reply. I don't know how it will work out ever getting it right with both eyes open, the left eye and right eye do not work together at all, I am not talking eye dominance, they simply don't see the same thing at the same time. I was badly cross eyed among other things when I was young and had at least 3 surgeries that I recall and I am told 5 surgeries. My left eye still drifts out, I can bring it in but then the right eye drifts out. I have had to learn to adapt when driving by leaving myself a very large cushion between vehicles, city driving is much harder. This is why I want to try with one eye closed, I shot an entire summer before my accident and things never changed, I was always perfect left and right but always shot over or under the target at 10 yards all the way out to 30 Another thing I found is that if I pulled back, held and then released then my left and right was also off but if I pulled back, rested the string against the corner of my mouth and then release then I always did much much better. Basically a snap release.

[Bowguy]

Gotcha, sorry to hear that. Be sure of your range w a rangefinder than. For safety's sake only close eye at last moment

[Sir-diealot]

Gotcha, sorry to hear that. Be sure of your range w a rangefinder than. For safety's sake only close eye at last moment

I can't really afford a rangefinder, I pace stuff off and stay within 30 yards. I will try the closing at last minute.

[Gooserbat]

All I've used is either a Case Trapper or Muskrat pocket knife.  No problems.

[Sir-diealot]

All I've used is either a Case Trapper or Muskrat pocket knife.  No problems.

Thanks bud.