20 gauge single-shot project gun

[n2deer]

Nice, cant wait to see it when your all done. I need to get to work on some kind of turkey project.
My last one was a 12g citori, and i have a small youth condor i plan to camo, its a 20.

Its around 5.5 also and about as long as my arm. Lol

[gatrkyhntr70]

Very nice set up!! Looking forward to seeing the paint job.

[gobblergls]

Very nice set up!! Looking forward to seeing the paint job.

You set high standard with the job you did on yours.  I primed it yesterday and put the first coat on.  However, the Rustoleum camo (khaki) didn't have the label "bonds with plastic" while the other cans did.  Didn't catch difference until this a.m.   So, out of precaution, I  sanded it off and reprimed tonight with plastic primer both the stock and forend.  Better safe than sorry. Gil

[killdee]

Thanks for the update and patterns. William has my 870 20 gauge project and when I get it finished I intend to build a single shot also. I hit the Eastman show last Saturday here in Marietta looking for a Savage 220 but older guns are few and far between in those shows. Unless your looking for pistols, assault rifles or zombie killing weapons, dont waste your $. I have a old H&R Topper 20 I could build, its just a 2-3/4 chamber but with TSS thats all you need anyway,but I do like the idea of a hammerless gun.

[gatrkyhntr70]

Very nice set up!! Looking forward to seeing the paint job.

You set high standard with the job you did on yours.  I primed it yesterday and put the first coat on.  However, the Rustoleum camo (khaki) didn't have the label "bonds with plastic" while the other cans did.  Didn't catch difference until this a.m.   So, out of precaution, I  sanded it off and reprimed tonight with plastic primer both the stock and forend.  Better safe than sorry. Gil

I dont blame you deffinately better safe then sorry. I like the home xamo jobs alot they add alot more caracter to the gun. keep us posted

[gobblergls]

Happy July 4th, from the Khaki Russian!  Enjoy your brewskis,  rockets and barbecue briquettes red glare!

Here are some photos of the gun disassembled after priming and with overcoat of Rustoleum Khaki.  The plastic stock and forend required a couple of coats of primer and overcoat.  The gun is reassembled and placed in attic until tomorrow evening.  I will then use male stencils to begin a woodlands camo job.  I decided that it would be more difficult to use female stencils because of the stock contours and I anticipated problems of keeping stencils flat to surfaces.   I found the stencils on line at http://www.potato-gun-plans.com/category/paint-military-camo-stencils/  The cost was $6 after applying the 25% discount.  I opted for woodlands.  Since I'm using the male cutouts from the stencils, the finished product won't resemble what you see depicted.  We'll see.

[mohall64]

   Thank you for the stencil site info.  Your project is looking very good -- keep posting your updates!

[Hayudog]

Your gun looks to be coming along great.  My Remington SPR100 Baikal 20 barrel goes into the mail today to Sumtoy.

Watched an American Guns episode last night and one of the gunsmiths was using a stencil material that was being cut out and then pealed to stick to gun.  I remembered that when I used hard mylar stencils how difficult it was to get the stencil into sharp bends, and corners.  After watching the show I'll bet that using something like "Avery label" paper would work.  Cut the stencil out just as would and then peal and stick it to the gun.  The bad... it wouldn't be re-usable.  Not sure if the sticky would be too sticky and peal the under paint.  I used painters blue tape one time to make a reed pattern on my son's beat up 870 and that worked fine.

Keep up the good work- I'm following your footsteps.

Doug

[gobblergls]

Doug, one tip the paint ball stencil site suggested was spraying the male stencil with a tacky non- permanent adhesive such as Krylon Tact.  3M also makes a "repositional adhesive" spray mount that I'm using.  I plan on attaching all stencils at one time and for painting hold the gun upright with a piece of wood held by my Workmate and wedged into the open stock.  This would allow spraying and drying all sides at once. The Avery label paper sounds like it might work as well.  Good idea.  I'm using card stock rather than the mylar or acetate recommended.  I wasn't about to pay $50 for a pack of overhead projector acetate.  The card stock appears to be flexible enough to fit depressions, curves, etc.  One concern when peeling the tape or material is lifting paint.  One option that I'm considering to prevent this is to soak the gun, lock, stock and barrel in my bathtub with hot, soapy water to help dissolve the bond if necessary.  Since there is no wood in the gun, this won't hurt a thing.

[gobblergls]

While the re-priming and re-painting of the stock and forend seems to have held satisfactorily, I wasn't satisfied with the metal work painting.  It easily scratched and chipped down to the bluing.  I had degreased the gun, but it being new, the bluing seemed  to interfere with the primer adhering to the barrel and receiver.  In about an hour and half, with a sanding block and  medium grit emery cloth, I took the paint and bluing off down to the bright metal which is something I should have done in the beginning.  All has been primed.  I'll add another coat with priming.  Stenciling with cardstock and repositional adhesive doesn't hold well on curves and contours.  I'm considering covering both sides of cardstock with blue painter's tape and  print it with the stencil pattern.  This will yield two sets of male stencils when cut out and some of the tackiness will wear off when removed from the cardstock.  A work (and education) in progress.

[Hayudog]

Was thinking the same thing.  There is a special blue tape that is for "just primed or painted" surfaces.  It has a less tacky glue.  Bought some at the hardware store today.  They had some that came all the way to 4" wide.  I bought the 2", figured I could make it wide if I needed it.  I'll cut my stencils out of it. 

Should have read the forum this morning.  My barrel is in the mail to William.  I had some time today, so I Sanded and painted the wood, and metal parts that are still at home.  Did a primer and base coat.  Seeing that you have taken yours down to raw metal now I'm hoping I haven't jumped the gun.  One thing I can say is that I will take the barrel down to raw metal when it gets back.  I have a metal etch material that may work on removing the bluing.  I know that the petroleum jelly that removes rust will remove bluing also. 

Thanks for the update.
Doug

[gobblergls]

Doug, a lot of guns  have been painted with bluing still intact so you may be okay.  This gun was NIB and that might have been the difference.  It had a fairly slick finish.  I covered one side of card stock with the blue tape and printed a stencil.  Before cutting out, I covered the other side as well.  Since I'm cutting male stencils, I used scissors rather than an Xacto knife.  It was much faster to cut with scissors and I have twice as many stencils per sheet by doubling up.  I re-primed with two coats and after 4 hours from the last coat, put a topcoat of Khaki on.  I'll allow it to dry for 24 before stenciling.

[killdee]

Keep us posted, forum slows down after season and its nice to have something interesting and informative to read.

[TrackeySauresRex]

Keep us posted, forum slows down after season and its nice to have something interesting and informative to read.

Yep.. X-2. I'm sure she's gonna look great. 

[gobblergls]

First photo shows it being taped up in the vertical position.  After running out of the stencils from the paintball stencil site (link above), I free-hand cut out the remainder with scissors rather than print up more from the PDF.  Useful tip:  I used the tip of the Xacto knife to drag along the tip of the end of a male stencil cut-out to "tease" up the tape and grasped the teased up point with tweezers.  This really sped things up as I had initially tried to "split" the tape off the cardstock with the edge of the knife.  This more often split the card stock rather than separate the tape from the card stock.  Second photo is after spraying with dark olive drab.  I'll let it cure for 24 hours, then tape again with stencils to balance OD with dark brown.  Stay tuned.