Box calls lids getting slick

[Txag12]

Wanted to get y'all's input from those of you more versed in box calls than myself. I have noticed over time my box calls get slick and develop a shiny looking burnished like finish at the friction points on lid. I feel like I notice a slight different in sound, but for sure a noticeable difference in playability as well as the calls ability to "hold onto" chalk. Is this normal to have the lid of calls slick off from use? I occasionally remove the old chalk with a dry paper towel and regularly reapply chalk in the course of a hunt as needed. I would appreciate y'all's input. Thank you!

[vt35mag]

Normal.
If you feel the need to do more than what you are doing, I would use fine grit sand paper on the bottom of the lid. Move the length of the lid (with the grain). Follow the contour/radius of the lid with little to no pressure on the paper. You aren't sanding the lid, just raising the grain, that's it. Few passes back and forth should be all you need.

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[mmclain]

A good box call needs no chalk.    The more polished it is the easier to play.  I rarely chalk the lid on my A Paul box calls. 

[Spitten and drummen]

A good box call needs no chalk.    The more polished it is the easier to play.  I rarely chalk the lid on my A Paul box calls.

This is solid advice.

[Zobo]

A good box call needs no chalk.    The more polished it is the easier to play.  I rarely chalk the lid on my A Paul box calls.

This is solid advice.

Yes, the angel's wings are a good thing best left alone unless it really won't play, which is rare with good boxes.

[HookedonHooks]

A good box call needs no chalk.    The more polished it is the easier to play.  I rarely chalk the lid on my A Paul box calls.

This is solid advice.

This. I don't ever add chalk unless it's hen box, I'll occasionally lightly scotch bright those particular spots if I've been running a call in the house a LOT. I'm talking way more than you'd use in a whole day of hunting hard.

[Greg Massey]

Sometimes chalk is a good thing and helps improve the tones and sounds of the call, it's about creating friction. I do agree with thinking you can over chalk a box also. You can lightly clean the paddle with piece of scotch brite.  I've never really took a piece of sandpaper to the bottom of a lid.   It's funny that some say a box doesn't need chalk, because i have never received one from a builder yet, that didn't have chalk on the lid and chalk with the call.. interesting .... these builders include, Al Paul, Marlin, TJ, Steve Mann, Darrin Dawkins, Lamar, Steve Savage, Scott Witter, Jeff Mckamey, Matt Van Cise, Eric Rice, Robert Cifft, Neal Cost, Preacherman and SS Custom calls just to name a few and the same with all the hen box builders all the ones I've ever received had chalk on the lid and chalk with the call ... I can say i have never received a special note from any of these builders telling me not to use chalk on the call either..

[culpeper]

While a very good box call will run without chalk, I have never heard one or run one that sounded better compared to the same box call that had chalk.  To me, the call that runs well without chalk has been built well, which is to say ALL the mechanics of the call work well AND, very importantly, the wood used is cooperating.  To know the full potential of what a box call has to offer, chalk is essential.  It's a friction call and more friction, i.e. chalk, will inherently produce truer sound.  Yes, over time as the chalk wears away, a good box call will become smoother and easier to run, but easier to run doesn't necessarily translate into better sound.  If that was the case, wouldn't competiton calls not have any chalk on them.  Every single call I have either built, scored well with and/or was successful hunting with, offers better/crisper clucks and yelps when it has chalk...before the angle wings become real smooth.  I would encourage anyone who hunts with a box call to 'experiment' with no chalk and then chalking the call during the off season and decide for yourself.  I also believe there a certain aspect of this that is completely subjective, a lot of guys want a subtler sound and you will get that with minimal chalk/friction.

[Greg Massey]

While a very good box call will run without chalk, I have never heard one or run one that sounded better compared to the same box call that had chalk.  To me, the call that runs well without chalk has been built well, which is to say ALL the mechanics of the call work well AND, very importantly, the wood used is cooperating.  To know the full potential of what a box call has to offer, chalk is essential.  It's a friction call and more friction, i.e. chalk, will inherently produce truer sound.  Yes, over time as the chalk wears away, a good box call will become smoother and easier to run, but easier to run doesn't necessarily translate into better sound.  If that was the case, wouldn't competiton calls not have any chalk on them.  Every single call I have either built, scored well with and/or was successful hunting with, offers better/crisper clucks and yelps when it has chalk...before the angle wings become real smooth.  I would encourage anyone who hunts with a box call to 'experiment' with no chalk and then chalking the call during the off season and decide for yourself.  I also believe there a certain aspect of this that is completely subjective, a lot of guys want a subtler sound and you will get that with minimal chalk/friction.

Great Post ... this pretty much sums it up.. the call is a friction type call..

[Zobo]

Albert Paul had a good how to about this on his web page. Environmental factors in the field and during storage I'm sure play a role in how often chalk is needed. As well as style of running the call and of course frequency. Wood type might matter too. Culpepper can speak on this maybe.  Sanding the wings for someone younger/new to using boxes and calling, I would stay away from, except in extreme cases. I wouldn't get in that habit and I don't find it necessary. I think i've done it three times in 35 years of running boxes. Steve Mann told me the wings are golden, and I have found that to be true on several of my calls but not all of them, once again I'm sure wood species plays a role here too.

[vt35mag]

Sanding the wings for someone younger/new to using boxes and calling, I would stay away from, except in extreme cases. I wouldn't get in that habit and I don't find it necessary. I think i've done it three times in 35 years of running boxes.

Agreed
In all the years and in all the box calls I have had, I have done this a handful of times myself.  Something one would not want to make a habit of.
Same goes for the rails, if I have ever done anything with those it was a few light passes with a green scotchbrite pad and that is it.  Certainly no sand paper.  Don't want to do anything that would be detrimental to the tuning of the call, or how the lid rides over the rail.

[Zobo]

Another thought I'm having now that I'm going through my boxes and looking at the ones I don't generally need to chalk is: does the rail thickness play a role in how often chalk is needed? Maybe I'm hallucinating but it seems like the calls with thinner rails need it less frequently.

[culpeper]

You could look at it this way...some guys use a scratch pad for their glass pot calls, some use 150 grit sandpaper and others use 220, or otherwise, guess the same applies for a box call; if you think it sounds great without chalk then that's how you should treat it, and likewise with chalk, but handsdown, I wouldn't want ayone messing with the sound rails.

[culpeper]

Another thought I'm having now that I'm going through my boxes and looking at the ones I don't generally need to chalk is: does the rail thickness play a role in how often chalk is needed? Maybe I'm hallucinating but it seems like the calls with thinner rails need it less frequently.

I think this is splitting hairs, but on the other thought, yes, some wood "eats" chalk more so than others.  For lids, Snakewood can eat chalk as well as some Bloodwood, whereas, Ipe, Walnut, Cherry and most domestics seem to hold it well/longer.  There is also a direct correlation to the wood used for the lid/paddle.  Heavier exotic wood species tend to affect chalk wear more than lighter domestic species.

[gergg]

I always found a good box will run longer(and better) without needing to add chalk than a poorly tuned box. My preference was to add chalk and run the box until it got the sound/playability I wanted, then I was good for a long while. If chalk is needed, a little goes a long way.