Turkey hunting forum for turkey hunting tips

Stupid Question should I just pack along the folding Gerber knife or bring the Wyoming type blade as well? Sorry I have no friends that hunt turkey other than one associate that I am not sure I trust anything he says. If it helps I intend to mount tail feathers and beard.

It's not a stupid question, but I would leave the gut knife at home to save on the extra weight that it would add in your vest. Good luck.

Quote from: Dr Juice on April 26, 2018, 06:37:30 PM
It's not a stupid question, but I would leave the gut knife at home to save on the extra weight that it would add in your vest. Good luck.

Thanks, I had a feeling that would be the answer, but I don't know everything, I only think I do so I thought I would ask. :D

Good deal. Knock 'em dead

Agreed...Unless your trying to go all out Freddie Kruger on the thing.

Quote from: Dr Juice on April 26, 2018, 06:42:58 PM
Good deal. Knock 'em dead

Thanks, sure hope to.

Quote from: 1iagobblergetter on April 26, 2018, 06:49:08 PM
Agreed...Unless your trying to go all out Freddie Kruger on the thing.

Are we talking Jackie Earle Haley Freddie Kruger or Robert England Freddie Kruger? I am down with some Robert England slicing and dicing!

I don't think that would do you much good on a turkey. A pocket knife is plenty to gut a bird.  I prefer a fixed blade and use the same knife I use for deer. I just switched over to a knives of alaska alpha wolf and I am in love. It's simple sturdy, dependable and not to big. Plus I am a big fan of the drop points.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/6f5e554bbb3a8f765be267fb320dbb0a.jpg)

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 26, 2018, 06:52:21 PM

Quote from: 1iagobblergetter on April 26, 2018, 06:49:08 PM
Agreed...Unless your trying to go all out Freddie Kruger on the thing.

Are we talking Jackie Earle Haley Freddie Kruger or Robert England Freddie Kruger? I am down with some Robert England slicing and dicing!

:z-winnersmiley: Robert England

Quote from: Happy on April 26, 2018, 07:16:48 PM
I don't think that would do you much good on a turkey. A pocket knife is plenty to gut a bird.  I prefer a fixed blade and use the same knife I use for deer. I just switched over to a knives of alaska alpha wolf and I am in love. It's simple sturdy, dependable and not to big. Plus I am a big fan of the drop points.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/6f5e554bbb3a8f765be267fb320dbb0a.jpg)

Nice looking knife. I have been trying to watch some videos on youtube on cleaning them but they all leave the legs and that just really bothers me. My understanding is that the legs can be done very nicely to make them tender and I want to do that.

I save the whole bird myself. The legs and thighs are delicious if cooked correctly. Matter of fact my kids enjoy it more than the beast. I gave a fellow turkey hunter a plateful last year and he begged for the recipe. Just taking the breast seems wasteful to me. 

Quote from: Happy on April 26, 2018, 07:36:36 PM
I save the whole bird myself. The legs and thighs are delicious if cooked correctly. Matter of fact my kids enjoy it more than the beast. I gave a fellow turkey hunter a plateful last year and he begged for the recipe. Just taking the breast seems wasteful to me.

I agree, that is what bothers me about a lot of waterfowl hunters around here, they say just cut the breast out and chuck the rest.

It might sound odd but I would kinda like to study the insides as/after gutting it, I don't know why, I just like biology and would like to know more about how they work a little better.

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 26, 2018, 07:41:19 PM

Quote from: Happy on April 26, 2018, 07:36:36 PM
I save the whole bird myself. The legs and thighs are delicious if cooked correctly. Matter of fact my kids enjoy it more than the beast. I gave a fellow turkey hunter a plateful last year and he begged for the recipe. Just taking the breast seems wasteful to me.

I agree, that is what bothers me about a lot of waterfowl hunters around here, they say just cut the breast out and chuck the rest.

It might sound odd but I would kinda like to study the insides as/after gutting it, I don't know why, I just like biology and would like to know more about how they work a little better.

If it's your first bird you should probably pluck the whole bird to break your voodoo curse...

Quote from: 1iagobblergetter on April 26, 2018, 07:48:09 PM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 26, 2018, 07:41:19 PM

Quote from: Happy on April 26, 2018, 07:36:36 PM
I save the whole bird myself. The legs and thighs are delicious if cooked correctly. Matter of fact my kids enjoy it more than the beast. I gave a fellow turkey hunter a plateful last year and he begged for the recipe. Just taking the breast seems wasteful to me.

I agree, that is what bothers me about a lot of waterfowl hunters around here, they say just cut the breast out and chuck the rest.

It might sound odd but I would kinda like to study the insides as/after gutting it, I don't know why, I just like biology and would like to know more about how they work a little better.

If it's your first bird you should probably pluck the whole bird to break your voodoo curse...

I am seriously debating to pluck or skin, my back will ultimately make that decision on that day. I make my own arrows, well fletch them on a Jojan fletcher and I would love to have a few with turkey feathers I got myself. I have never worked with feathers before, but would be cool to try out. Here are some I have done on my own.

Neat. Dont you just use the wing feathers for that.
I swear it took me longer to pluck one than if it took me all day to kill it. It was an experience to say the least..Quit that long ago. Somebody posted using wax. That looked easy..

Quote from: 1iagobblergetter on April 26, 2018, 08:08:34 PM
Neat. Dont you just use the wing feathers for that.
I swear it took me longer to pluck one than if it took me all day to kill it. It was an experience to say the least..Quit that long ago. Somebody posted using wax. That looked easy..

Growing up I butchered hundreds of chickens and dozens of turkeys. Dunk them in a pot of boiling water and it loosens the feathers up tremoundously. Don't dunk it to long or you will just rip the skin when you pluck

Quote from: 1iagobblergetter on April 26, 2018, 08:08:34 PM
Neat. Dont you just use the wing feathers for that.
I swear it took me longer to pluck one than if it took me all day to kill it. It was an experience to say the least..Quit that long ago. Somebody posted using wax. That looked easy..

I am not sure which feathers you would use for that. I have never heard of using wax but it works on women's legs so why not on quills?

Quote from: Happy on April 26, 2018, 08:27:31 PM

Quote from: 1iagobblergetter on April 26, 2018, 08:08:34 PM
Neat. Dont you just use the wing feathers for that.
I swear it took me longer to pluck one than if it took me all day to kill it. It was an experience to say the least..Quit that long ago. Somebody posted using wax. That looked easy..

Growing up I butchered hundreds of chickens and dozens of turkeys. Dunk them in a pot of boiling water and it loosens the feathers up tremoundously. Don't dunk it to long or you will just rip the skin when you pluck

I remember my next door neighbor doing that, he did them to sell and he would dunk them in boiling water and then throw them in this spinning thing with all kinds of rubber "fingers" I will call them sticking out. Made quick work of both chickens and turkeys.

Quote from: Happy on April 26, 2018, 08:27:31 PM

Quote from: 1iagobblergetter on April 26, 2018, 08:08:34 PM
Neat. Dont you just use the wing feathers for that.
I swear it took me longer to pluck one than if it took me all day to kill it. It was an experience to say the least..Quit that long ago. Somebody posted using wax. That looked easy..

Growing up I butchered hundreds of chickens and dozens of turkeys. Dunk them in a pot of boiling water and it loosens the feathers up tremoundously. Don't dunk it to long or you will just rip the skin when you pluck

I grew up the same way minus the Turkey's. Tried the boiling water,but a bunch of the feathers still didn't want to come out. After the first one my family (pluckers)disappeared for the next one...Lol..

Not a stupid question at all, only those that go unasked are. As Happy stated, a pocket knife will  do the job and I've used a small gerber on a pile of turkeys. I've also tried plucking and found it wasn't worth the effort, IMO. For years we skinned and gutted turkeys. These days I fillet the breast out using a fillet knife. I've save some thighs and legs (easy to just cut those off at the body) but have yet to be successful in cooking them to satisfaction. Not saying I don't think it's possible, just haven't gotten there yet. As for ducks, I fillet and save the thighs and legs. Mostly get wood ducks here and those double butter milk battered fried duck fillets and thighs/legs will simply make your eyeballs roll back in your head. Thighs and legs being the most flavorful. Good luck on the turkey. They were ghosts and haints for me for the first few years.

Quote from: 1iagobblergetter on April 26, 2018, 08:39:05 PM

Quote from: Happy on April 26, 2018, 08:27:31 PM

Quote from: 1iagobblergetter on April 26, 2018, 08:08:34 PM
Neat. Dont you just use the wing feathers for that.
I swear it took me longer to pluck one than if it took me all day to kill it. It was an experience to say the least..Quit that long ago. Somebody posted using wax. That looked easy..

Growing up I butchered hundreds of chickens and dozens of turkeys. Dunk them in a pot of boiling water and it loosens the feathers up tremoundously. Don't dunk it to long or you will just rip the skin when you pluck

I grew up the same way minus the Turkey's. Tried the boiling water,but a bunch of the feathers still didn't want to come out. After the first one my family (pluckers)disappeared for the next one...Lol..

Funny how that happens isn't it?

Quote from: THattaway on April 26, 2018, 08:50:08 PM
Not a stupid question at all, only those that go unasked are. As Happy stated, a pocket knife will  do the job and I've used a small gerber on a pile of turkeys. I've also tried plucking and found it wasn't worth the effort, IMO. For years we skinned and gutted turkeys. These days I fillet the breast out using a fillet knife. I've save some thighs and legs (easy to just cut those off at the body) but have yet to be successful in cooking them to satisfaction. Not saying I don't think it's possible, just haven't gotten there yet. As for ducks, I fillet and save the thighs and legs. Mostly get wood ducks here and those double butter milk battered fried duck fillets and thighs/legs will simply make your eyeballs roll back in your head. Thighs and legs being the most flavorful. Good luck on the turkey. They were ghosts and haints for me for the first few years.

I was invited to go duck/goose hunting by somebody I sold some old hunting equipment last year, could not do it because of the should surgery on my butt stock shoulder this year but hoping I can get up enough strength as I had same surgery on the fore stock shoulder in Jan. I am looking forward to it.

Not stupid at all. Leave the gut knife home and use the Gerber or whatever your favorite knife is. A fillet knife works well. I breast the turkey out and remove the thighs and legs. After appropriate trimming of the thighs and legs, they can also be ground for burgers. After plucking your first turkey you will find out why most guys skin theirs after that. Feathers everywhere after 2 or 3 hours. But to each their own.

Quote from: richard black on April 26, 2018, 10:48:27 PM
Not stupid at all. Leave the gut knife home and use the Gerber or whatever your favorite knife is. A fillet knife works well. I breast the turkey out and remove the thighs and legs. After appropriate trimming of the thighs and legs, they can also be ground for burgers. After plucking your first turkey you will find out why most guys skin theirs after that. Feathers everywhere after 2 or 3 hours. But to each their own.

Thanks for the advise. The big thing for me is I always think of that lovely skin on the Thanksgiving turkey that I love so very very much that I can't imagine doing it without. Have to go, dog is hinting it is bed time.

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 26, 2018, 10:52:27 PM

Quote from: richard black on April 26, 2018, 10:48:27 PM
Not stupid at all. Leave the gut knife home and use the Gerber or whatever your favorite knife is. A fillet knife works well. I breast the turkey out and remove the thighs and legs. After appropriate trimming of the thighs and legs, they can also be ground for burgers. After plucking your first turkey you will find out why most guys skin theirs after that. Feathers everywhere after 2 or 3 hours. But to each their own.

Thanks for the advise. The big thing for me is I always thing of that lovely skin on the Thanksgiving turkey that I love so very very much that I can't imagine doing it without. Have to go, dog is hinting it is bed time.

Get that image of a fat / plump / golden-skinned butterball out of your head... it's not the same! (lol).

Skin it / filet it / chunk it into nuggets. You'll thank us later...

Best of luck!!!!

I smone the breasts and its the best"deli" meat I ever ate. I braise the legs and wings and it is also good. As to the knife, I am down to bare bones vest and lowest weight possible. The older and more beat uo I get, the lighter my vest gets. Weird huh  :funnyturkey:

 I just wait until I get back to the house and do all my cleaning with a Rapala filet knife.  That way I can keep the meat cleaner and take immediately to The Boss Hen to wash and package.

To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Quote from: SteelerFan on April 27, 2018, 12:00:11 AM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 26, 2018, 10:52:27 PM

Quote from: richard black on April 26, 2018, 10:48:27 PM
Not stupid at all. Leave the gut knife home and use the Gerber or whatever your favorite knife is. A fillet knife works well. I breast the turkey out and remove the thighs and legs. After appropriate trimming of the thighs and legs, they can also be ground for burgers. After plucking your first turkey you will find out why most guys skin theirs after that. Feathers everywhere after 2 or 3 hours. But to each their own.

Thanks for the advise. The big thing for me is I always thing of that lovely skin on the Thanksgiving turkey that I love so very very much that I can't imagine doing it without. Have to go, dog is hinting it is bed time.

Get that image of a fat / plump / golden-skinned butterball out of your head... it's not the same! (lol).

Skin it / filet it / chunk it into nuggets. You'll thank us later...

Best of luck!!!!

I guess it would be different, I imagine there is a taste difference as well.

Quote from: zelmo1 on April 27, 2018, 06:31:30 AM
I smone the breasts and its the best"deli" meat I ever ate. I braise the legs and wings and it is also good. As to the knife, I am down to bare bones vest and lowest weight possible. The older and more beat uo I get, the lighter my vest gets. Weird huh  :funnyturkey:

I tend to over due things but am of the frame of mind that it is better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it. My friends poke fun at me for carrying a first aid kit even.

Quote from: tha bugman on April 27, 2018, 10:16:07 AM
I just wait until I get back to the house and do all my cleaning with a Rapala filet knife.  That way I can keep the meat cleaner and take immediately to The Boss Hen to wash and package.

The boss hen part would be interesting to see how it worked out here, my GF is not anti hunting or anything but she will swerve to miss a squirrel and does not like scenes in movies with animals getting hurt/killed. She eats meat just fine though. We went to see Revenant and she was sad that he killed the bear.

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 10:25:00 AM
To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 10:25:00 AM
To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Agreed.  And if I'm not mistaken, it's the primary wing feathers only. 

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 11:01:06 AM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 10:25:00 AM
To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

Sir-diealot, visit tradgang.com http://tradgang.com/ (http://tradgang.com/) for more info than you will ever need about setting up for traditional bow hunting.  Those guys can point you in the right direction and are willing to help.

About the carbon arrows that look like wood...... It depends on how "authentic" you want to get.  Personally, I like the carbon fiber arrows that are meant for trad bows because you don't have to worry about them being straight or off-balance. 

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 11:01:06 AM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 10:25:00 AM
To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

It's no prob. There are certain glues they say are specific to certain shaft types and feather/vanes but I use fletch tire platinum on em all. It's a glue, you never tie them down. You need a burner to shape the feathers.
The trad gang advice is good , so is stykbowman. It's the leatherwall on bpwsite.
If you're just doing a compound you can use an offset which uses reg clamps. Trad I use helical always but I shoot off the shelf.

Quote from: kjnengr on April 27, 2018, 11:09:48 AM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 11:01:06 AM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 10:25:00 AM
To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

Sir-diealot, visit tradgang.com http://tradgang.com/ (http://tradgang.com/) for more info than you will ever need about setting up for traditional bow hunting.  Those guys can point you in the right direction and are willing to help.

About the carbon arrows that look like wood...... It depends on how "authentic" you want to get.  Personally, I like the carbon fiber arrows that are meant for trad bows because you don't have to worry about them being straight or off-balance.

Thanks, I will check out that site. One of the things that have me interested in the carbon is they don't break as much as wood and the straightness of them. Also I hear that wood is far more expensive unless you make them yourself and I know me well enough to know that I am no Bowyer.

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 11:25:19 AM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 11:01:06 AM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 10:25:00 AM
To answer the question whatever old pocket knife you have is way more than sufficient.

To answer the arrow question yes you use wing feathers. Also another thing to note is when making arrows you need the feathers from the same wing side. Hence right wing or left wing feathers as noted on package. The old rule of thumb was a right hand shooter oughta shoot a left wing feather, either offset or helical if more trad stuff is used for best flight.
I've personally always heeded this advice but a few guys have experimented and say it matters not which. If that's the case than I'll stay left wing.
I'd also fletch all arrows the same, not mix right/left wing.

Thank you for the advise on both points. I do not have a right helical jig for my JoJan but I do know that they sell them so I will look into the cost if I do choose to do that. I know there are now carbon arrows made to look traditional, not sure if I would go with them or not but in all honesty I think I am leaning that way. Do you have to tie the feathers down? Do I need a feather burner? Can I use same glue I use on vanes? Thanks and sorry about grilling you.

It's no prob. There are certain glues they say are specific to certain shaft types and feather/vanes but I use fletch tire platinum on em all. It's a glue, you never tie them down. You need a burner to shape the feathers.
The trad gang advice is good , so is stykbowman. It's the leatherwall on bpwsite.
If you're just doing a compound you can use an offset which uses reg clamps. Trad I use helical always but I shoot off the shelf.

I am interested in trying traditional again after the shoulder has healed up. My left and right was always right on the money but my elevation was all over the place. I have mentioned here before and you may have seen that I had a lot of surgeries on my eyes when I was young, as a consequence I can't seem to judge distance well which is why I don't shoot bow or gun for turkey beyond 30 yards. I had always been told to keep both eyes open when I shoot and I think that is what has caused the elevation problem, when I do go back to it I will only use one eye and try to use the tip of the arrow to aim with. I have a Ben Pearson* Cougar set at I think 45 or 50 lbs. which now seems perfect with my shoulder problems where before I always wanted to shoot heavier (Young dumb ego I guess) but now want to go lower. I have a PSE Carrera compound set at around 63 which was turned down from 70 when the shoulder problems started and I think next year if I don't like how I am doing with the recurve I will get a compound bow set 45-50 lbs at 29" draw. I currently use a Freeflight trigger release that clips to the string (The vision problem mentioned above makes it had for me to use a loop) I have some old Fred Bear broadheads that I would like to use because Fred was there with me (In spirit) when I took my first deer with an old Bear Whitetail II which I shot better than I do my PSE to be honest. My dream is to own an old Fred Bear Kodiak or a Black Widow take down bow but they are so incredibly expensive.

Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 12:45:24 PM
Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 12:49:02 PM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 12:45:24 PM
Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Nothing to do w release. It's closing one eye that kills binocular vision required for good range estimation. 
We're talking two dif things here trad one minute than compound I think?
If we're on the compound one decent release you'll find easy to use it a try fire hardcore.
It's not crazy expensive but has a decent trigger, breaks fairly clean and is real easy to use getting on. I bet it'd be easier than a free flight. Wouldn't chew up a serving either

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 03:44:47 PM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 12:49:02 PM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 12:45:24 PM
Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Nothing to do w release. It's closing one eye that kills binocular vision required for good range estimation. 
We're talking two dif things here trad one minute than compound I think?
If we're on the compound one decent release you'll find easy to use it a try fire hardcore.
It's not crazy expensive but has a decent trigger, breaks fairly clean and is real easy to use getting on. I bet it'd be easier than a free flight. Wouldn't chew up a serving either

Not two different things, I think I just worded things in a confusing way. I was asking you if you meant closing one eye would make my elevation worse by closing one eye, you answered it in this reply. I don't know how it will work out ever getting it right with both eyes open, the left eye and right eye do not work together at all, I am not talking eye dominance, they simply don't see the same thing at the same time. I was badly cross eyed among other things when I was young and had at least 3 surgeries that I recall and I am told 5 surgeries. My left eye still drifts out, I can bring it in but then the right eye drifts out. I have had to learn to adapt when driving by leaving myself a very large cushion between vehicles, city driving is much harder. This is why I want to try with one eye closed, I shot an entire summer before my accident and things never changed, I was always perfect left and right but always shot over or under the target at 10 yards all the way out to 30 Another thing I found is that if I pulled back, held and then released then my left and right was also off but if I pulled back, rested the string against the corner of my mouth and then release then I always did much much better. Basically a snap release.

Gotcha, sorry to hear that. Be sure of your range w a rangefinder than. For safety's sake only close eye at last moment

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 04:44:05 PM
Gotcha, sorry to hear that. Be sure of your range w a rangefinder than. For safety's sake only close eye at last moment

I can't really afford a rangefinder, I pace stuff off and stay within 30 yards. I will try the closing at last minute.

All I've used is either a Case Trapper or Muskrat pocket knife.  No problems.

Quote from: Gooserbat on April 27, 2018, 10:56:01 PM
All I've used is either a Case Trapper or Muskrat pocket knife.  No problems.

Thanks bud.

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 12:49:02 PM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 12:45:24 PM
Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Another option for a release is a T-handle/hand held release. You can hook it to the loop when you first get ready and leave it hooked up. When it's time to shoot, just grab the release and pull...no trying to find the loop in the "heat of the monent". There are many different brands, styles and price ranges. I like Tru-Ball releases. I currently shoot a 4 finger Boss X and Max Pro 4. The Boss X will run around $150 new and the Max Pro about $100 new. At times you can pick them up used on Archerytalk.com in the classifieds for $100 and $60 respectively.

Quote from: captpete on April 29, 2018, 08:27:29 AM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 12:49:02 PM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 12:45:24 PM
Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Another option for a release is a T-handle/hand held release. You can hook it to the loop when you first get ready and leave it hooked up. When it's time to shoot, just grab the release and pull...no trying to find the loop in the "heat of the monent". There are many different brands, styles and price ranges. I like Tru-Ball releases. I currently shoot a 4 finger Boss X and Max Pro 4. The Boss X will run around $150 new and the Max Pro about $100 new. At times you can pick them up used on Archerytalk.com in the classifieds for $100 and $60 respectively.

It does look like a very nice release, but I don't like that it can't be attached to you, I could see it falling off the string and in the case of somebody being in a stand falling to the ground. Not as bad for me as I am hunting from a ground blind. I do have a question on it though, with my Winn Free Flight release it makes it much much easier and more comfortable to draw the bow, I have not seen any other release that does that, does this release do the same?

Quote from: captpete on April 29, 2018, 08:27:29 AM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 12:49:02 PM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 12:45:24 PM
Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Another option for a release is a T-handle/hand held release. You can hook it to the loop when you first get ready and leave it hooked up. When it's time to shoot, just grab the release and pull...no trying to find the loop in the "heat of the monent". There are many different brands, styles and price ranges. I like Tru-Ball releases. I currently shoot a 4 finger Boss X and Max Pro 4. The Boss X will run around $150 new and the Max Pro about $100 new. At times you can pick them up used on Archerytalk.com in the classifieds for $100 and $60 respectively.

The problem w the style you hook on is a good one is light, clean triggered. If you're elevated and if you bump it it'd fall to ground. They're also inherently pricier.
Also if you were to change to a dif style anchor, release, etc anything could do it your draw could change. That would affect the string angle. In turn you'd have to move any peeps, kissers, etc and most likely resight. You may need new arrows too.
It all depends on the release neck length.
If you're going thumb style though forget the  $150 ones and go for a carter. It's slighltymore but you'd prob love it more than you do your wife.
Stan makes a decent one as well. They're all around a couple hundred.
Now some thumb styles "set" when pressed against string. Some don't and require dexterity. Being the op said he has probs those oughta be passed imo

I think I have confused things a bit and I apologize, when I do go to try traditional I will more than likely go with a glove with the finger tabs on them.

When I am referring to a release I am talking about shooting my compound. To be 100% honest when it comes to the compound I really do like my release, yes I have to have it reserved every now and again but it is easier than the loop for me for the reasons I said above. Now the one way I think that it may work for me with a loop is with one of those plastic loops like this one, https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/tru-ball-tru-nok-with-peep-aligner but I have never even seen those in person so I could have problems with that as well, who knows. The thought in my mind on why that may be better is though I would still have the problem with judging the up and down trying to get the jaws on it (What I mean here is like people go to hand me a pen and I am always grabbing behind it or in front of it and often they just shove the pen into my hand) because it is hard plastic I would not have to worry about the loop bending over or up and fighting me more if I do miss it a little, but again that is just speculation. I am sorry if I am sounding like a chronic complainer, it is not my intent, just trying to be sure everybody knows what it is I am trying to say.

Plastic loops if your not perfect lead to torque

Quote from: Bowguy on April 29, 2018, 04:30:48 PM
Plastic loops if your not perfect lead to torque

Ah okay, then I am back to my preference of a release that goes on the string.

Take a look at the hardcore. It's got one jaw. Think you'll find it real easy w a string loop

Quote from: Bowguy on April 29, 2018, 09:27:12 PM
Take a look at the hardcore. It's got one jaw. Think you'll find it real easy w a string loop

I saw a few by them that are called Hardcore but by the looks of the other ones you had me look at I am guessing you mean this one? I have actually used one of those (Hook types) once, I did not release with it as we were in a grocery store parking lot. A friend of mine was selling French Bulldog pups and part of the deal was a $1000+ Bowtech bow and some cash and he knew nothing about bows so he asked me to come along. I brought my release but when we got there is was a loop so I had to use the guys release to pull it back. I had a hard time getting it on the loop and he had to help me get it on the loop, though it was decent to pull back. If I could get in a shop or had a friend with one and have them let me practice with one for a bit I might buy one but to be perfectly honest with you $100 and up for a release I may not even like or be able to use is just not a wise move for me financially, I would rather use it to buy a few more calls here :D Again I would be willing to try one if I found a way to use one for a bit first and see if I could adjust to it.

That is the thumb style. I was referring to the index style. The thumb one stinks trigger wise. Guess it's all relative. Correct shooting form uses back tension and you need a clean release. They do cost a few hundred. There's actually nothing I'd recommend lower than the index style hardcore. I think I'm referring to it correctly. It's got a single jaw, same as that thumb style and you can just put it on loop. There is one advantage to the thumb style you show, it's the keeper on it. You'll not knock it off so easy. It's got a long neck though,

Here is it cheap. I actually never saw it so. It's not the best but better than lots


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote from: Bowguy on April 29, 2018, 01:01:31 PM

Quote from: captpete on April 29, 2018, 08:27:29 AM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 12:49:02 PM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 12:45:24 PM
Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Another option for a release is a T-handle/hand held release. You can hook it to the loop when you first get ready and leave it hooked up. When it's time to shoot, just grab the release and pull...no trying to find the loop in the "heat of the monent". There are many different brands, styles and price ranges. I like Tru-Ball releases. I currently shoot a 4 finger Boss X and Max Pro 4. The Boss X will run around $150 new and the Max Pro about $100 new. At times you can pick them up used on Archerytalk.com in the classifieds for $100 and $60 respectively.

The problem w the style you hook on is a good one is light, clean triggered. If you're elevated and if you bump it it'd fall to ground. They're also inherently pricier.
Also if you were to change to a dif style anchor, release, etc anything could do it your draw could change. That would affect the string angle. In turn you'd have to move any peeps, kissers, etc and most likely resight. You may need new arrows too.
It all depends on the release neck length.
If you're going thumb style though forget the  $150 ones and go for a carter. It's slighltymore but you'd prob love it more than you do your wife.
Stan makes a decent one as well. They're all around a couple hundred.
Now some thumb styles "set" when pressed against string. Some don't and require dexterity. Being the op said he has probs those oughta be passed imo

I bought the Carter chocolate addiction many years ago because I like the idea of having a "T" handle style release.  I clip it to my loop and there is no issue of taking my eye off the target to find the loop.   My release does not have a heavy trigger, but you would have to hit very sharply exactly on the thumb trigger to make it release.  Simply bumping it would make the release swing back and forth, not release it.  Also, I keep my backup release in my backpack/fanny pack just in case for multiple reasons.

Quote from: kjnengr on April 30, 2018, 09:57:00 AM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 29, 2018, 01:01:31 PM

Quote from: captpete on April 29, 2018, 08:27:29 AM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 27, 2018, 12:49:02 PM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 27, 2018, 12:45:24 PM
Just so you know when you close one eye binocular vision is gone and your elevation probs would/ should increase.
The Winn free flight that clips straight to string is real rough on lots of servings. Just an FYI

So it should make my elevation worse? I just don't have a choice on the release, when I have tried to clip into a loop I always end up above or below the string whereas with the one that clips on the string I cheat by putting my middle finger on the string and that makes it so that I know where to place the release.

Another option for a release is a T-handle/hand held release. You can hook it to the loop when you first get ready and leave it hooked up. When it's time to shoot, just grab the release and pull...no trying to find the loop in the "heat of the monent". There are many different brands, styles and price ranges. I like Tru-Ball releases. I currently shoot a 4 finger Boss X and Max Pro 4. The Boss X will run around $150 new and the Max Pro about $100 new. At times you can pick them up used on Archerytalk.com in the classifieds for $100 and $60 respectively.

The problem w the style you hook on is a good one is light, clean triggered. If you're elevated and if you bump it it'd fall to ground. They're also inherently pricier.
Also if you were to change to a dif style anchor, release, etc anything could do it your draw could change. That would affect the string angle. In turn you'd have to move any peeps, kissers, etc and most likely resight. You may need new arrows too.
It all depends on the release neck length.
If you're going thumb style though forget the  $150 ones and go for a carter. It's slighltymore but you'd prob love it more than you do your wife.
Stan makes a decent one as well. They're all around a couple hundred.
Now some thumb styles "set" when pressed against string. Some don't and require dexterity. Being the op said he has probs those oughta be passed imo

I bought the Carter chocolate addiction many years ago because I like the idea of having a "T" handle style release.  I clip it to my loop and there is no issue of taking my eye off the target to find the loop.   My release does not have a heavy trigger, but you would have to hit very sharply exactly on the thumb trigger to make it release.  Simply bumping it would make the release swing back and forth, not release it.  Also, I keep my backup release in my backpack/fanny pack just in case for multiple reasons.

My brother shoots one of the chocolates. He likes it. I was using a too simple or just b cuz on a compound. Course fingers on a longbow or recurve.
The carters though, I've never seen a bad one. The triggers are adjustable and you must have yours heavier than mine. Mine you put some back tension pressure on or the George Ryals method of elongating fingers and it goes off.
You tube archery learning center, thing a week George Ryals releases. He shows back tension and thumb releases shot exactly the same way. It's pretty awesome and I'd be pretty sure it's a non target panic pro method. Check it out. George is one of the country's top coaches.
We're pretty far removed from the op original question now though

Quote from: Bowguy on April 30, 2018, 06:18:11 AM
Here is it cheap. I actually never saw it so. It's not the best but better than lots


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice looking release. This is the exact one that I have now that goes to the string serving, second picture is a jaw type that they use for a loop. I think if I do go with loop in future it would be with the second one as it is a familiar feel to me. Also I can just buy the metal parts, remove my metal parts and attach it to my current "glove" and I would not have to break in another one. I also like that the way you pull back on them makes the pull much, much easier.

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 30, 2018, 11:58:39 AM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 30, 2018, 06:18:11 AM
Here is it cheap. I actually never saw it so. It's not the best but better than lots


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice looking release. This is the exact one that I have now that goes to the string serving, second picture is a jaw type that they use for a loop. I think if I do go with loop in future it would be with the second one as it is a familiar feel to me. Also I can just buy the metal parts, remove my metal parts and attach it to my current "glove" and I would not have to break in another one. I also like that the way you pull back on them makes the pull much, much easier.

I know the release. That's why I say it's rough on servings. Maybe if your bow is longer you won't have a prob

Quote from: Bowguy on April 30, 2018, 12:44:00 PM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on April 30, 2018, 11:58:39 AM

Quote from: Bowguy on April 30, 2018, 06:18:11 AM
Here is it cheap. I actually never saw it so. It's not the best but better than lots


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice looking release. This is the exact one that I have now that goes to the string serving, second picture is a jaw type that they use for a loop. I think if I do go with loop in future it would be with the second one as it is a familiar feel to me. Also I can just buy the metal parts, remove my metal parts and attach it to my current "glove" and I would not have to break in another one. I also like that the way you pull back on them makes the pull much, much easier.

I know the release. That's why I say it's rough on servings. Maybe if your bow is longer you won't have a prob

Ah okay, thanks for letting me know. My bow is 37" axle to axle and has an 8" brace height. Whatever I do it won't be right away, van is more important right now, I have been trying to get it into the shop for at least 2 months but the GF keeps putting it off and now it looks like I won't be able to go out tomorrow for opening day because the vehicle I was supposed to be using has to be used for getting others to work. May not get out until next week. I am not a happy camper. I do thank you for your advise though.

 Looks like you picked up some nice Auto 5's this month.   Lol.      Seen you post on one of my favorite forums.   Nice finds for sure!

Quote from: backwater on May 01, 2018, 07:11:12 PM
Looks like you picked up some nice Auto 5's this month.   Lol.      Seen you post on one of my favorite forums.   Nice finds for sure!

Auto 5's?

Quote from: Sir-diealot on May 01, 2018, 09:15:08 PM

Quote from: backwater on May 01, 2018, 07:11:12 PM
Looks like you picked up some nice Auto 5's this month.   Lol.      Seen you post on one of my favorite forums.   Nice finds for sure!

Auto 5's?

Guess that's not you on another forum.  A brand new poster, that goes by sir diealot, made a post about some recent shotgun finds.   Lol.   

Quote from: backwater on May 02, 2018, 06:47:59 AM

Quote from: Sir-diealot on May 01, 2018, 09:15:08 PM

Quote from: backwater on May 01, 2018, 07:11:12 PM
Looks like you picked up some nice Auto 5's this month.   Lol.      Seen you post on one of my favorite forums.   Nice finds for sure!

Auto 5's?

Guess that's not you on another forum.  A brand new poster, that goes by sir diealot, made a post about some recent shotgun finds.   Lol.

Nope not me, I know there is a Sir-diealot on Youtube and one on Twitch but neither are me. I am [BPN] Sirdiealot on both of those as Sir-diealot had already been taken by the time I got interested in those. The [BPN] is the gaming clan I belong to and stands for BulletProof Nerds.