OldGobbler

OG Gear Store
Sum Toy
Dave Smith
Wood Haven
North Mountain Gear
North Mountain Gear
turkeys for tomorrow

News:

registration is free , easy and welcomed !!!

Main Menu

protecting the tail feathers for mounting

Started by hotspur, February 29, 2020, 10:20:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

hotspur

If you have a long walk out with a big ole gobbler what is your method for protecting the tail ?

Greg Massey

What i did was hang mine in a tree and drove back down the field roads and loaded it up. But i know this isn't always possible , so i guess you will just have to carry it and protect it the best way you can... It's amazing what a good taxidermy can do with feathers ...

Gobble!

Over the shoulder on under it with a tote. Never out my birds in a bag or back of the vest.

Kylongspur88

I use a vest. Some of my walks out on NF land may be a few miles or more. I just try and make sure I don't go through thick brush or anything that can snag the tail. They're actually pretty tough. Just avoid hitting the feathers in a way that would make them bend.

GobbleNut

Be as careful as you can with your bird, but as was stated, they are pretty tough.  The main thing is to try not to break the tail and wing feathers and not knock a bunch of feathers out of your bird.  Most of that kind of damage occurs at the shot and when the bird is flopping around anyway, so when shooting a gobbler that you may intend on mounting, try not to shoot the bird through the tail or wings, and try to minimize the floppage after the shot.

Of course, a head shot is best (heads can be replaced).  However, a concentrated shot in the neck below the head in the neck feathers will do more damage, and is harder to repair than just about any other damage, so it is best to avoid doing that. 

Finally, a good taxidermist can fix a lot of ills on a mount (replace and/or fill in lost feathers) so do not assume that a bird you wish to have mounted is not salvageable.  Even pretty badly damaged capes can be saved.


Bowguy

Guys what are you doing to the tail? If you don't break anything a little roughed up can be fixed. The tail is often cut off. It's washed, degreased, rinsed, tumbled than blow dried n carded. Finally mounted w bondo to the form during mounting. Anything but broken will be gone. I don't remember any turkey I've mounted being unsalvageable because of the way they were carried out. The bigger prob is pieces being shot off.
Say you want a full strut, the tail is on display. We could try n hide the damage but if enough feather pieces are shot off you're gonna see it.
Now yes be careful carrying it out but no need to really stress imo.

Bowguy

To add the entire bird is washed, degreased n dried as described. Just don't break the feathers. On smaller birds (such as ducks) they can be slid in panty hose pieces. A turkey is too big for that.

bbcoach

I agree with Bowguy.  For me, I have always used my turkey vests rear pocket.  The body will fit securely there.  Collapse the fan together, so the quills will be together, stronger this way.  Put a string or rubber band around them if you want but not necessary and head for the truck.  Most of us normally walk back out via a road or open path so there shouldn't be a problem.  If you use a Turkey tote, then tie or rubber band the wings to the body and collapse the tail as mentioned if you are afraid of it flopping and breaking.

GobbleNut

A bigger problem than feather breakage or damage is letting the skin spoil before getting it to your taxidermist.  If the skin starts deteriorating and the feathers start slipping and falling out, you are screwed.  Either get the bird to your taxidermist quickly (within 24-48 hours in hot climates) or freeze the bird right away. If you can't get it to your taxidermist or freeze it, keep it on ice or in a refrigerator until you can,...and then do one or the other within a few days. 

Again, if you let that cape start spoiling, you are done as far as mounting your bird is concerned.

Harty

Quote from: bbcoach on March 01, 2020, 07:04:09 AM
I agree with Bowguy.  For me, I have always used my turkey vests rear pocket.  The body will fit securely there.  Collapse the fan together, so the quills will be together, stronger this way.  Put a string or rubber band around them if you want but not necessary and head for the truck.  Most of us normally walk back out via a road or open path so there shouldn't be a problem.  If you use a Turkey tote, then tie or rubber band the wings to the body and collapse the tail as mentioned if you are afraid of it flopping and breaking.
[/quo

This for me too .been doing it this way for years and never had a problem with any damage.



Bowguy

Quote from: GobbleNut on March 01, 2020, 08:42:51 AM
A bigger problem than feather breakage or damage is letting the skin spoil before getting it to your taxidermist.  If the skin starts deteriorating and the feathers start slipping and falling out, you are screwed.  Either get the bird to your taxidermist quickly (within 24-48 hours in hot climates) or freeze the bird right away. If you can't get it to your taxidermist or freeze it, keep it on ice or in a refrigerator until you can,...and then do one or the other within a few days. 

Again, if you let that cape start spoiling, you are done as far as mounting your bird is concerned.

Another very good point

Gamblinman

"I don't hunt turkeys because I want to. I hunt turkeys because I have to."

MK M GOBL


wvmntnhick

I've found that missing the bird helps plenty often. Then you don't have to worry about the feathers at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gamblinman

Quote from: MK M GOBL on March 01, 2020, 07:23:53 PM
Quote from: Gamblinman on March 01, 2020, 06:30:38 PM
How to prepare a turkey for your taxidermist. Excellent information.

https://www.facebook.com/turkeysonly/videos/1081822558830898/

John Beard is awesome!




MK M GOBL

He's done several for my clients...everyone I have seen were spectacular.
"I don't hunt turkeys because I want to. I hunt turkeys because I have to."