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Where do you start

Started by Brad_23, June 26, 2016, 09:11:43 AM

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Brad_23

I'm looking to try my hand at making a crow call and was wondering where I need to start as far as mandrels. Chucks, bits, or whatever I need ..

mgbuck34

I start with a .625 reamed hole and turn my shape by placing it on a .625 hardened mandrel. I use a #2 morse taper to add the angle for the mouthpieces. The wooden mouthpieces are quite a few more steps. Hope this helps, good luck.
Former member name was I_call_em_all

Brad_23


wvmntnhick

Man, I didn't understand a word of that. Probably best for me to leave the call making to the experts.  :icon_thumright:

Lonehowl

#4
I would suggest buying a couple sets of plastic crow call mouthpieces, and starting with that. I like the kind with a #2 Morse Taper on them. You can buy this kind of set from several different places, Pioneer turkey calls, Brookside game calls, THO supply etc. That is not the brand I use but it will get you started and makes a pretty good call. You will need to start with a 5/8" bore.

The Morse Taper description refers to the tapered angle (bottom part) of the mouthpieces that gets seated into the barrel. They are #2 size, Morse Taper, so you need a #2 size, Morse Taper reamer to ream out a small portion of the barrel so they will seat. You can see taper on this pair:

002 by Lonehowl, on Flickr


Doing this on a drill press is tricky, youll struggle to keep tool/bore straight. I use a metal lathe. I drill a 5/8" hole all the way thru. Actually, I drill an undersized hole and straighten it with a boring bar. This ensures me a good straight bore to work with. I make sure I dont cut over my 5/8 goal. Then a run a 5/8 straight reamer thru the hole to size it, which is important if you will be using a mandrel.

While still on the lathe, I use the Morse Taper #2 reamer and ream the hole to the right depth. I use WD40 on the reamer to do this with. Ive always used WD40 when boring/reaming wood and it works great. Does not hurt the wood one bit. Try it with and without and youll see what I mean.

I take it off the metal lathe and put it onto my wood lathe. I use a tapered mandrel I designed to turn my calls with, inserted into the reamed/tapered part of barrel, but you can simply use a 5/8 mandrel, (I suggest an expanding mandrel) to turn the barrel to shape with, inserted into barrel with the 5/8 bore.. You may or may not enlarge the barrel ID a bit after your done. I do, but you do not have to.

After finishing, seat your mouthpieces and tune.
003 by Lonehowl, on Flickr

That is all in a nutshell. There are many steps involved, but it can be as simple as you want it to be.
Making wood mouthpieces is a completley different thing. There are a couple different styles you can build, but that is another story...with tears...

004 by Lonehowl, on Flickr
001 by Lonehowl, on Flickr

Mark



Lonehowl

#5
Just a side note...if you have a wood lathe that is variable speed, or can run relatively slow, you can drill and ream on it. You do need a bit of torque though. You dont want any chatter (which the WD40 helps prevent) when you ream. You need to have everything as solid/rigid as possible as well. You can also just hand sand the hole (instead of reaming) to get the fit you want. Just more work and is not as precise.
All JMHO.
Mark

Brad_23

Thanks for that very informative information that's exactly what I was looking for.. I can understand step by step