Alcohol pads?

[Gobblerstopper]

Ok. I understand using alcohol pads on bead blasted aluminum.  Water would do the same thing, but is not conducive to using on a friction surface.  Plus, the aluminum surface is pretty much permanently conditioned as long as the striker used is softer than the aluminum.

But now I am seeing alcohol pads being recommended for almost every surface.  Why?  I understand that it evaporates and leaves the surface dry, but what exactly is it removing?  I'm missing something.

[Cut*N*Run]

Oils will dissolve in alcohol so it is a good way to get finger oils off of a call. That's pretty much the only reason I can think of. I'm fine with just scotch brite roughing on slate and copper though and saving the alcohol for aluminum and glass. JMO. 

[lightsoutcalls]

I've been wondering the same thing myself.  I use them on my anodized surfaces with good results.  I wasn't sure about the need on the copper, although I haven't tried it to see what it does one way or the other. 

[shootumindaface]

I think cut and run hit the nail on the head..

One word of caution, I would not recommend it for in the field use.. It takes a while to bring the call back to sound through playing... Could be 5 minutes could be 20 minutes.. You almost have to get that striker groove wore back in..

I have had quicker results with a Mr Clean Magic eraser

[Gobblerstopper]

I tried some on a piece of titanium here earlier after conditioning it. It did remove a lot of something dark colored.  Probably just debris from conditioning, but I didn't notice a big change in the sound of it.

A magic eraser.  That's a pretty good idea.  It evaporates quicker than the alcohol then?  Have to give that a try.  I know I was in Alabama hunting with a friend and he had an aluminum call that I had built him 3-4 years prior and the surface looked just like it did the day I mailed it out.

[shootumindaface]

I tried some on a piece of titanium here earlier after conditioning it. It did remove a lot of something dark colored.  Probably just debris from conditioning, but I didn't notice a big change in the sound of it.

A magic eraser.  That's a pretty good idea.  It evaporates quicker than the alcohol then?  Have to give that a try.  I know I was in Alabama hunting with a friend and he had an aluminum call that I had built him 3-4 years prior and the surface looked just like it did the day I mailed it out.

I was playing around in the house and used than stuck in front of a heater vent, so no real world advice weather it dried faster or not.. But the slick period was shorter than what it was with alcohol

[fl panhandler]

I tried some on a piece of titanium here earlier after conditioning it. It did remove a lot of something dark colored.  Probably just debris from conditioning, but I didn't notice a big change in the sound of it.

A magic eraser.  That's a pretty good idea.  It evaporates quicker than the alcohol then?  Have to give that a try.  I know I was in Alabama hunting with a friend and he had an aluminum call that I had built him 3-4 years prior and the surface looked just like it did the day I mailed it out.

and it still looks and more importantly SOUNDS just as good as it sounded brand spankin' new.  It's slap full of turleys.
Rick