Cleaning 11-87

[Cutt]

I will be cleaning a new 11-87 for the first time, and had a couple questions. When I break the gun down I have some Breakfree Powder Blast for cleaning everything, and I have some Breakfree CLP for lubing. My question is do I lube all internal parts lightly or do I avoid some areas? Remington video shows someone cleaning one and not even lubing anything. They make it sound as only to lube for long term storage then remove the film before using? What areas should I lube, and what areas to avoid? Not talking about the barrel, many articles on that, just the rest of the gun, so don't need any barrel cleaning advice or links.

And being I'm only shooting 3in. or 3.5in. should I remove the barrel seal activator? Thanks

[paladin]

clean choke threads and lube with grease. clean bolt face and leave dry.
I use a drop or two of oil on trigger parts.

[Cutt]

Anything on the magazine tube, where the seals are? Or keep oil clear of seals? I know over lubing an autoloader is not something you want to do. But for someone who's never owned a autolader they tell you nothing about lubing other than storage.

And do most remove the barrel seal activator, when they are not shooting any 2 3/4in? Thanks

[allaboutshooting]

I own and shoot a couple of 11-87s. Here's what I'd recommend. I would pull the trigger group as well as the bolt, etc. All may have some pretty thick oil that was put there to retard rust.

I'd wipe it all down with a dry rag, being careful of sharp edges inside the receiver. (If you use "Powder Blast", you should be aware that strips all surfaces of oil and leaves them unprotected and subject to rust.) I put just a drop of oil on a Q-Tip and very lightly wipe the interior of the receiver and put just a bit on the rails for the bolt.

I oil pivot points in the trigger group only, being certain that I keep oil off the sear.

Oil in the receiver and trigger group will attract "gunk" and for that reason it's best to keep it to a minimum. It's kind of a balancing act as far as I'm concerned. You need a very little oil to protect everything but not so much as to attract a lot of dirt.

I recommend that you "deep clean" the bore of the barrel. Even new guns have dirty barrels and a thorough cleaning with a good solvent will really help.

The magazine tube and gas chamber should be dry with no lubrication whatsoever. The magazine tube is stainless and not really subject to rust.

The 11-87 is a very tough gun and just a little maintenance from time to time will keep it running like new.

Thanks,
Clark

[Cutt]

(If you use "Powder Blast", you should be aware that strips all surfaces of oil and leaves them unprotected and subject to rust.) Thanks,
Clark

I thought that was the idea with a new gun from what I read, was to deep clean all parts to remove unwanted factory preservatives? Then apply your own lube like Breakfree CLP with a light coat? Don't have to use the Powder Blast if not a good idea, would the Rem action Cleaner be a better choice, I'm guessing it would have the same cleaning effect as Powder Blast? Thanks

[Reloader]

IME autos don't like much oil.  A simple cleaning of parts and a wipe down with an oil rag is all thats needed.

[VAHUNTER]

i never oil my bolts or trigger assembly. oil will collect dust and other debri and gum things up. if you want to use some type of lubricant i suggest powder graphite

[Cutt]

Just so those replying understand, this not a general cleaning, it is a new gun cleaning for the first time.

I know I read several posts that say break a autoloader down the first time and degrease everything from the factory, then relube lightly.

Most are saying, just wipe it off? I really don't want to go through the trouble of degreasing everything if it's not neccessary, but I thought it was standard practice to completely degrease a new factory autoloader for the first time to eliminate possibly problems? Not sure where I read this, but know I did somewhere.? Thanks

[Reloader]

You can wipe off most of the thicker oil applied at the factory.  The only thing you are trying to accomplish is to keep the thick excessive amounts of oil or grease from collecting trash and gumming things up.

[allaboutshooting]

Just so those replying understand, this not a general cleaning, it is a new gun cleaning for the first time.

I know I read several posts that say break a autoloader down the first time and degrease everything from the factory, then relube lightly.

Most are saying, just wipe it off? I really don't want to go through the trouble of degreasing everything if it's not neccessary, but I thought it was standard practice to completely degrease a new factory autoloader for the first time to eliminate possibly problems? Not sure where I read this, but know I did somewhere.? Thanks

You are correct. It's a good idea to remove the thick oil that is on the gun from the factory. That oil may have been on there for a while and can at times be almost like grease. If it's been exposed to temperature extremes it may be more like wax as well. It's just that when you strip that off, the metal is bare and exposed to the possibility of rust. A moistened Q-Tip will give you all the lubrication that you need to wipe down the interior of the receiver and to lightly lubricate the rails for the bolt.

Folks have a tendency to over oil guns. Oil will attract "gunk" but it's easily cleaned off/out with just routine maintenance. I have shot 11-87s from April to September in still target competition, hundreds of rounds, and only cleaned the interior of the receiver and fire control group prior to the championship in October, without a failure. They can get dirty but they just keep going.

The gas residue on the magazine tube and in the ports can cause a problem. That area needs to be clean and dry.

Thanks,
Clark