Mouth call maker kit

[Mick2394]

Has anyone ever used the mouth call maker kit from turkey hunting secrets? Wanting to make some for myself or some friends and wondering if this is worth buying or not

http://www.turkeyhuntingsecrets.com/store/store-calls-Mouth-Call-Maker-Kit.htm

[GobbleNut]

That kit looks similar to the Call Purrfect kit that has been out for decades.  I had one way-back-when but found out before too long that it is pretty limited in what you can do with it in terms of reed tensioning...a factor that is very important in making calls.  I'm sure you would be able to make calls that will make turkey sounds but, quite honestly, there are better methods of making calls, including not using any kind of jig at all. 

My advice would be to order call-making materials from a supplier (you will be able to get a lot more call-making materials for your money that way) and either get another type of jig that gives you more range in reed tensioning...or use a jig-less method of call making altogether.  If you go to another type of jig, you want to get one that allows you to vary the reed tensioning/stretch.  If you need more information on materials, jigs, or jig-less call making, I'm sure the folks here can help you out with recommendations. 

Also, lots of good advice and answers to questions you might have can be found in previous posts in this section... 

[Mick2394]

That kit looks similar to the Call Purrfect kit that has been out for decades.  I had one way-back-when but found out before too long that it is pretty limited in what you can do with it in terms of reed tensioning...a factor that is very important in making calls.  I'm sure you would be able to make calls that will make turkey sounds but, quite honestly, there are better methods of making calls, including not using any kind of jig at all. 

My advice would be to order call-making materials from a supplier (you will be able to get a lot more call-making materials for your money that way) and either get another type of jig that gives you more range in reed tensioning...or use a jig-less method of call making altogether.  If you go to another type of jig, you want to get one that allows you to vary the reed tensioning/stretch.  If you need more information on materials, jigs, or jig-less call making, I'm sure the folks here can help you out with recommendations. 

Also, lots of good advice and answers to questions you might have can be found in previous posts in this section... 

Thanks for the reply gobblenut, I looked briefly at individual call making materials and then found this kit and figured it would be something simple enough to mess around with. Keep it as cheap as possible I suppose. Wasn't trying to fully invest into an actual press since I'll just be making some for myself and a couple friends.

[GobbleNut]

I looked briefly at individual call making materials and then found this kit and figured it would be something simple enough to mess around with. Keep it as cheap as possible I suppose. Wasn't trying to fully invest into an actual press since I'll just be making some for myself and a couple friends.

You are in the same position I was in years ago when I first wanted to start making mouth calls.  That is, not wanting to invest a bunch of money in a relatively expensive jig, or worse yet, a press, when I was planning on only making calls for myself and maybe a few friends.  Thinking a simple jig like the one you are looking at would suffice, that is what I started with.  It wasn't long, however, before I realized the limitations inherent in that kind of jig. 

Try that kit and jig if you think it will suffice, but based on my own experience, I think you will quickly want to move on to another way of making calls.  I simply devised a method of making calls without any sort of jig or press, and although it is not as precise as using a jig/press, it works quite nicely for someone not wanting to invest a bunch of dollars,...and it is a lot more flexible in what you can do in terms of assembling calls that address all the variables involved.  If you would like to go that route, I can provide basic instructions on how to assemble the calls.   

[Mick2394]

I looked briefly at individual call making materials and then found this kit and figured it would be something simple enough to mess around with. Keep it as cheap as possible I suppose. Wasn't trying to fully invest into an actual press since I'll just be making some for myself and a couple friends.

You are in the same position I was in years ago when I first wanted to start making mouth calls.  That is, not wanting to invest a bunch of money in a relatively expensive jig, or worse yet, a press, when I was planning on only making calls for myself and maybe a few friends.  Thinking a simple jig like the one you are looking at would suffice, that is what I started with.  It wasn't long, however, before I realized the limitations inherent in that kind of jig. 

Try that kit and jig if you think it will suffice, but based on my own experience, I think you will quickly want to move on to another way of making calls.  I simply devised a method of making calls without any sort of jig or press, and although it is not as precise as using a jig/press, it works quite nicely for someone not wanting to invest a bunch of dollars,...and it is a lot more flexible in what you can do in terms of assembling calls that address all the variables involved.  If you would like to go that route, I can provide basic instructions on how to assemble the calls.   

Thank you for the advice. That would be much appreciated if you have the time!

[GobbleNut]

If you would like to go that route, I can provide basic instructions on how to assemble the calls.   

Thank you for the advice. That would be much appreciated if you have the time!

Okay, here are the basic instructions on how to make calls (the way I do it) without a jig or pres:  (I used to sell kits for this myself). 
Assemble your materials (obviously):  You need frames, tapes, and latex.  If you order these from a site such as Pioneer, you will generally be getting quantities in multiples of 50.  My recommendation is to order 50 frames (I would advise starting out with "small crowned adhesive" (s.c.a.) frames from Pioneer, or equal), 50 tapes whatever color you prefer (make sure to match the tape with the frame size), and an assortment of latex reed material (recommend sticking with thicknesses of .004, .003, .0025, and proph to start with).

Making your calls: 
Stretching the reed material:  First off, the latex comes in 1"X2" pieces (with my method, you can cut the pieces in half lengthwise to create two 1/2" X2" pieces and double your material).  Find a surface that scotch tape will stick to (I use a small piece of Formica or Melamine).  Choose the latex you want for your top/primary reed and tape one end down (the 1/2" width) on your surface, just catching the end of the material so it will stay in place and so you can stretch the other end.  Apply a piece of tape at the other end and stretch the opposite end to the desired tension (1/4" to 1/2" is a good starting point, but can vary), and tape that end down flat (you can also add back tension and/or front tension by taping the top and bottom edges, as well, but you must do this towards the outer edges to allow for frame installation).  Repeat this process for however many reeds you want to put in your calls...and with whatever reed spacing and tensioning you want to use...but always remembering you must leave enough space in the center for installing the frame.

Installing the frame:  You should now have your reeds taped down, staggered and tensioned how you want, and with enough space allowed to slip the frame around the center of the stretched reeds.  Take your frame, bend to about a 90 degree angle, remove the paper protecting the adhesive (if using adhesive frames), and slip bottom of the frame (tab side down) under your reeds (this can be a bit tricky in that you have to make sure the reeds don't hang up on the adhesive as you are sliding the frame under.  To minimize that chance, I use a piece of the slick-paper call-tape backing cut to the width of the frame and slide it between the frame and the reeds, and then pull it out (the bottom) when I have the frame positioned properly in relation to the reeds). 

Securing the frame:  After the frame is positioned properly with the reed material up against the bend in the frame, you will then push the top of the frame down against the reeds. Now take a hammer (or other suitable tool) and tap the top of the frame down securely all the way around the frame so it is sealed tightly and the reeds can't slip.  Take your thumb and bend the tab up over the top of the frame and tap it down in place.  Your call is now ready for the tape installation.

Installing the call tape:  First, take your tape and fold it in half (paper-side to paper-side and with the paper still on) so that the pre-cut hole is centered half-way to make the tape positioning easier.  Remove the paper on the tape to expose the adhesive and without letting the two sides stick together (keeping the tape sides separated at about a 90 degree angle is advisable).   Take the call and place the front edge at the fold in the tape and positioned properly with the tape hole (the tape adhesive is very sticky so try to get your call positioned properly to start with). Starting from the front edge of the call, carefully fold the tape down around the frame edges, working from front to back, so that the tape adheres evenly and without wrinkles (this is a bit tricky to start with, but once you have done it a few times, it is pretty simple to get the tape down without wrinkles). 

Cutting the call tape:  Use whatever template you want to establish the size and shape of the tape around the frame.  The simple method I use is to take a pill bottle (or similar) of the right size, center it on the call frame, trace the outline with a pen, and just use scissors to cut the tape. 

Reed Cutting:  Get some scissors (pointed-tip, preferably) that are good enough to cut the reed material (there are a lot of inexpensive scissors that will work just fine for this).  The most important point about reed cutting is that MOST of the time, you only want to cut the top/primary reed of your calls (making significant cuts in the secondary reeds almost always deadens the sound of the call...but there are exceptions).  Make whatever call design you prefer (or make up new ones) by carefully cutting that top reed. (I have outlined a cut progression in past posts that I recommend following to give you the best opportunity to get the most out of each call you make). ...And always remember that very small, minute changes in cuts in a call can make a big difference in how a call sounds...always be conservative in your cutting as you go...you can't take back a cut.   

So now, if you made it this far through this mess of instructions...and you have questions about anything...feel free to ask for clarification...   

[Mick2394]

If you would like to go that route, I can provide basic instructions on how to assemble the calls.   

Thank you for the advice. That would be much appreciated if you have the time!

Okay, here are the basic instructions on how to make calls (the way I do it) without a jig or pres:  (I used to sell kits for this myself). 
Assemble your materials (obviously):  You need frames, tapes, and latex.  If you order these from a site such as Pioneer, you will generally be getting quantities in multiples of 50.  My recommendation is to order 50 frames (I would advise starting out with "small crowned adhesive" (s.c.a.) frames from Pioneer, or equal), 50 tapes whatever color you prefer (make sure to match the tape with the frame size), and an assortment of latex reed material (recommend sticking with thicknesses of .004, .003, .0025, and proph to start with).

Making your calls: 
Stretching the reed material:  First off, the latex comes in 1"X2" pieces (with my method, you can cut the pieces in half lengthwise to create two 1/2" X2" pieces and double your material).  Find a surface that scotch tape will stick to (I use a small piece of Formica or Melamine).  Choose the latex you want for your top/primary reed and tape one end down (the 1/2" width) on your surface, just catching the end of the material so it will stay in place and so you can stretch the other end.  Apply a piece of tape at the other end and stretch the opposite end to the desired tension (1/4" to 1/2" is a good starting point, but can vary), and tape that end down flat (you can also add back tension and/or front tension by taping the top and bottom edges, as well, but you must do this towards the outer edges to allow for frame installation).  Repeat this process for however many reeds you want to put in your calls...and with whatever reed spacing and tensioning you want to use...but always remembering you must leave enough space in the center for installing the frame.

Installing the frame:  You should now have your reeds taped down, staggered and tensioned how you want, and with enough space allowed to slip the frame around the center of the stretched reeds.  Take your frame, bend to about a 90 degree angle, remove the paper protecting the adhesive (if using adhesive frames), and slip bottom of the frame (tab side down) under your reeds (this can be a bit tricky in that you have to make sure the reeds don't hang up on the adhesive as you are sliding the frame under.  To minimize that chance, I use a piece of the slick-paper call-tape backing cut to the width of the frame and slide it between the frame and the reeds, and then pull it out (the bottom) when I have the frame positioned properly in relation to the reeds). 

Securing the frame:  After the frame is positioned properly with the reed material up against the bend in the frame, you will then push the top of the frame down against the reeds. Now take a hammer (or other suitable tool) and tap the top of the frame down securely all the way around the frame so it is sealed tightly and the reeds can't slip.  Take your thumb and bend the tab up over the top of the frame and tap it down in place.  Your call is now ready for the tape installation.

Installing the call tape:  First, take your tape and fold it in half (paper-side to paper-side and with the paper still on) so that the pre-cut hole is centered half-way to make the tape positioning easier.  Remove the paper on the tape to expose the adhesive and without letting the two sides stick together (keeping the tape sides separated at about a 90 degree angle is advisable).   Take the call and place the front edge at the fold in the tape and positioned properly with the tape hole (the tape adhesive is very sticky so try to get your call positioned properly to start with). Starting from the front edge of the call, carefully fold the tape down around the frame edges, working from front to back, so that the tape adheres evenly and without wrinkles (this is a bit tricky to start with, but once you have done it a few times, it is pretty simple to get the tape down without wrinkles). 

Cutting the call tape:  Use whatever template you want to establish the size and shape of the tape around the frame.  The simple method I use is to take a pill bottle (or similar) of the right size, center it on the call frame, trace the outline with a pen, and just use scissors to cut the tape. 

Reed Cutting:  Get some scissors (pointed-tip, preferably) that are good enough to cut the reed material (there are a lot of inexpensive scissors that will work just fine for this).  The most important point about reed cutting is that MOST of the time, you only want to cut the top/primary reed of your calls (making significant cuts in the secondary reeds almost always deadens the sound of the call...but there are exceptions).  Make whatever call design you prefer (or make up new ones) by carefully cutting that top reed. (I have outlined a cut progression in past posts that I recommend following to give you the best opportunity to get the most out of each call you make). ...And always remember that very small, minute changes in cuts in a call can make a big difference in how a call sounds...always be conservative in your cutting as you go...you can't take back a cut.   

So now, if you made it this far through this mess of instructions...and you have questions about anything...feel free to ask for clarification...   

This is great, thank you so much for taking the time to write that up! Seems pretty simple but I'm sure I will have some hiccups at first and will keep you in mind for questions! Hope you have a great season and be safe, thank you again!

[eemer]

Ricky Joe Bishop makes a 3-D printed jig called the Lil Jiggy
He sells them for around $75 and it comes with enough latex and tape to make around 20 calls.  Look him up on facebook.
Great way to get started and if you are only making them for you and a few friends, it'll be all you need.