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LET'S DESIGN YOUR TURKEY VEST

Started by REBELYELL, March 23, 2023, 05:49:28 PM

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REBELYELL

I wish there was a company that would let you design your own vest and custom order it. Yes, it would be costly and probably have a long lead time but at least you get something really close to your liking. Like they say, different strokes for different folks. I certainly have not tried every vest offered these days, so there is probably one out there that would come close to being ideal for me, or you. I don't buy a new vest every year or every other year like some folks. I bought an Ol Tom Gunslinger last year and a Mossy Oak Mr. Fox vest this year. They are laid out very similar, with Mr. Fox having more accessorizing pockets but also added weight. For the life of me, I don't understand why it's so hard to make a striker holder that will hold an average length striker like a Bill Lyman, Jeff Harrision, Clay Townsend, etc, etc. The middle slot on both these new vests will hold one, but neither of the other two will close with a striker in them. It's hard toting around a $60-$75 Snakewood striker that is not secure in your vest. The last vest I bought prior to last year was a Russell Super Elite 3. Honestly, it's almost perfect if it had Claw straps or something similar, a magnet for the seat in the back and a sepearate pocket for a Thermacell. It does have an internal short box pouch that is perfect for a Thermacell if you are not toting a box call. It has a mesh net on the side that holds a bottle of water. It has deep internal pockets that will hold a wing. It has a ton of internal accessory pockets. It has internal striker holders that will actually hold a regular length striker, actually it will hold several of them and securely. Sorry I got off track. Sometimes I like to go light and might only have a yelper and a few mouth calls. If I'm going to spend several hours in an area, I might be loaded down. Some days I might tote 4-5 pots, 7-8 strikers, crow call, owl call, short box, scratch box, Thermacell, Roger Parks tree yelper, sanding stone, sandpaper & scotchbrite, chalk, a wing, gloves and a headnet. I'm probably forgetting something like TP because it gets pretty dang heavy, but I got just about everything I need. Sometimes I will lighten the vest up and tote a Glenda Green satchel along with wearing a vest. What are some things you would like to have in a vest.

-Magnet to hold seat vs buckles that you can't ever reach
-Striker holders that will actually fit a striker and stay closed and secure
-Box call holder that will actually fit a Watkins fiddle or Albert Paul short box
-Shoulder straps similar to Claw straps like a Dixon or Gunslinger
-Enough pocket space to hold 3-4 pot calls
-Designated pocket to hold a Thermacell
-Outside mesh pocket deep enough to hold a bottle of water
-Internal pockets deep enough to hold a fly down wing
-Locator call pockets actually big enough to hold an owl call like a Harrison 
-Internal pocket with loops to hold extra shotgun shells
-Plenty of accessory pockets for chalk, sandpaper, compass, etc

The Mr. Fox vest is really nice other than being on the heavy side. If I could make changes to it, I would have better striker holders, a magnet for the seat and one of the locator call slots big enough to hold a Harrison hooter, pot call holders big and deep enough to hold pots with a Koozie on them. At least it will hold a short box and a Thermacell at the same time. The Gunslinger is lighter and I really want to like it, but it has an even worse layout for my needs. I haven't tried an Alps or Nomad, they may have something close to my criteria. I really wish I get put my hands on a Grounded 2.0 vest to check it out. Actually, the Primos Will Primos vest looks like a great layout, but it's not offered in original bottomland or greenleaf. Oh well, maybe one day. I have told Glenda Green more than once she should make custom vests, but she won't entertain the idea or take on that much headache.

Lone Star Eastern

Rng 200 would be my starting point, but of course, there would be things I'd like to change.


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paboxcall

#2
Got to start with molle, otherwise what's the point. It has to be ADAPTABLE to individual needs.

Tetherd came close with the M2. But the Nomad MG, the similar Fox/Dixon vest, and the RNG 300 were strong designs despite being completely unadaptable.

Get the base right, even the M2 has its limitations, and make it all molle on a wide belt across the back, and a Fox / Nomad MG cut across the front on lightweight fabric with molle. Forget the silly gun sling style straps, and go molle down each shoulder. That would be an easy and cost effective base to start.

Put the time and energy into designing functional molle-base pockets for:
short box, and boxes with handles,
singular pot call holders similar to the RNG,
thermocell pocket,
water bottle pouch,
Dump pouch with velcro interior to modify the pockets similar to M2, and
yes, a striker holder that actually holds a striker securely.

All of these or some of these can easily be securely affixed to the molle base vest. Leave the shell loops to 3, its turkey hunting not a skeet shoot.

Want to carry four pots, molle lets you. Want to carry four boxes and no pots, molle lets you. Want to go light, leave the many molle pouches or pockets at home, and go with water, a box or pot pocket, and a dump pouch.

Seat can be attached like M2, but the RNG system accomplishes the same. But agree, hard to not use a seat system that has strong magnets like Nomad MG for moving quick.
A quality paddle caller will most run itself.  It just needs someone to carry it around the woods. Yoder409
Over time...they come to learn how little air a good yelper actually requires. ChesterCopperpot

Lone Star Eastern

Quote from: ETXhunter93 on March 23, 2023, 06:20:57 PM
Rng 200 would be my starting point, but of course, there would be things I'd like to change.


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Instead of the open slot on the right chest, I'd like that to be a zipper pocket for clippers, plus a slightly longer pocket on the right that my Harrison Hooter would fit better in. No need for the slot behind the two mesh diaphragm pockets. Zipper pockets on inside of vest for things you don't necessarily need quick access to, like license, zip ties, etc. I'd rather the shell slots to hold a sub gauge, rather than 12's only. Very strong magnet for seat, though the strap system they have is better than a light magnetic. Leather straps would be nice too, of course.


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ScottTaulbee

I'm a travel light kind of guy, if I'm feeling froggy I'll carry in my vest a slate and a glass pot, 3 strikers, a ziploc of baby wipes, a head lamp, a primos slick stick, an extra pair of gloves and a extra face mask, my small leather turkey tote, and 2 extra shells and a pen to fill out my tag.

Most of the time I'm carrying all that minus the slate and 1 striker. What I look for in a vest is fit and pocket layout. In my opinion these vests now are either made to fit a NFL linebacker or the pockets are in a position that make them nearly useless. Or if the pockets are good, they use inferior magnets or what have you. I prefer a strap vest. A pocket on each side of the inside for the pen, tote, and extra mask and gloves and baby wipes. A pocket for the pot calls with a snap, not magnets and not zippers. Striker pockets vertically right beside the pot call pockets with snaps. Thin straps, no padding, and made to fit a normal human. I'm 6ft 2, about 230 or 235 now after gaining 30 pounds since last year and the new vest are just now getting to where they aren't loose and sloppy fitting. When I was 190 to 200 pounds, they fit like I was a child in a man's shirt. I'd like one that was snug but not tight, and had some adjustment to accommodate layers without the straps being 2 foot long.


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gmbellew

honestly it is hard to improve on the dixon/limbhanger design on the outside pockets for my uses.  I do wish the inside of the limbhanger was like the dixon instead of the two large single pockets of the limbhanger. at least one of them has shell loops.

kytrkyhntr

I'd like to have a bottomland TATR 2

That'd be about right for me
don't let the truth get in the way of a good story

vt35mag

#7
Dixon vest layout with a thermacell pocket for sure.  Maybe a rigid sleeve to hold a trumpet.

afhunter1

Id take the fox vest and make these changes:

Striker pockets 1" longer and 1/2" wider
Get rid of conditioner pocket and make second 2 pot pocket same as other one
get rid of inside pockets on left and make 3 pockets for small locators, 3 pockets for large locators, mini pruner pocket, & thermacell pocket
put left inside layout on right side
turn two outside locator pockets into a compact bino pocket
make seat with good magnets
two "stretchy" water bottle pockets on back corners

I'd be pretty happy with that!

Tom007

Quote from: gmbellew on March 23, 2023, 08:46:45 PM
honestly it is hard to improve on the dixon/limbhanger design on the outside pockets for my uses.  I do wish the inside of the limbhanger was like the dixon instead of the two large single pockets of the limbhanger. at least one of them has shell loops.

Agreed here. The only real difference between the Dixon and Limbhanger is the minor pocket change, and it is much lighter. They replaced some of the heavy back material with mesh. This is a great warm weather vest option. The shoulder straps are different, I like the Limbhanger straps better. The claw straps dig in after long walks. The magnets on the Dixon vest were good, however if you move quickly through the woods on a re-set, they will fall down. Nothings perfect with these magnets. You can get some strong fabric ready magnets and very easily add them to any set-up, once again they have limited holding capabilities. Very good information here, all valid points. The problem with vests is there are so many variables that dictate design:

Hunting climate
Hunting Style/material
Preferred load capacity/layout
Seat style
Weight
Bird bag/Not
Shoulder straps
Back padding
Call pocket options

This list is endless. This is why this is a difficult design to achieve. Good thread.....

Sixes

Either incorporate  a Hunt Comfort Fatboy seat into the vest or sell vests without the seat. I carry mine in the gamebag, which is the only use that I have for a gamebag.


Happy

I never got the appeal on magnets for the seat. They are pretty loud when they connect. I always preferred the quick release buckles. I can operate them silently. Of course, this is coming from a guy who doesn't worry about using the seat all that much when I am on a turkey. 

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Zobo

Quote from: Happy on March 24, 2023, 11:13:59 AM
I never got the appeal on magnets for the seat. They are pretty loud when they connect. I always preferred the quick release buckles. I can operate them silently. Of course, this is coming from a guy who doesn't worry about using the seat all that much when I am on a turkey.

Magnets have no place on a turkey vest, I'm wondering when they're gonna figure that out!
Stand still, and consider the wonderous works of God  Job:37:14

Zobo

Quote from: afhunter1 on March 24, 2023, 09:49:53 AM
Id take the fox vest and make these changes:

Striker pockets 1" longer and 1/2" wider
Get rid of conditioner pocket and make second 2 pot pocket same as other one
get rid of inside pockets on left and make 3 pockets for small locators, 3 pockets for large locators, mini pruner pocket, & thermacell pocket
put left inside layout on right side
turn two outside locator pockets into a compact bino pocket
make seat with good magnets
two "stretchy" water bottle pockets on back corners

I'd be pretty happy with that!


And make it half the weight. Ditto for the Dixon
Stand still, and consider the wonderous works of God  Job:37:14

Tom007

Quote from: Zobo on March 24, 2023, 08:06:16 PM
Quote from: Happy on March 24, 2023, 11:13:59 AM
I never got the appeal on magnets for the seat. They are pretty loud when they connect. I always preferred the quick release buckles. I can operate them silently. Of course, this is coming from a guy who doesn't worry about using the seat all that much when I am on a turkey.

Magnets have no place on a turkey vest, I'm wondering when they're gonna figure that out!

Yes, they pretty much only hold the seat up when your not moving. When you are on the move, the seat will drop from the weight for sure.