Mounting a reflex sight

[Meleagris gallopavo]

I've mounted a couple of reflex red dot sights on my turkey guns in the past few years but I want to check myself before mounting my new one. I typically mount the base to the gun and use blue locktite on the screws before I tighten them.  I do the same on the screws that attach the sight to the base.  I have heard of some folks using red locktite but I'm worried about getting the screws out if I want to change something out.  I tend to tighten screws down too much sometimes and I always struggle with that.  I've heard of folks using a torque screwdriver to tighten screws to a certain level, but I'm not sure where to find the right torque screwdriver or what to set it to.  Any help on this topic would be much appreciated.


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[Greg Massey]

I've mounted a couple of reflex red dot sights on my turkey guns in the past few years but I want to check myself before mounting my new one. I typically mount the base to the gun and use blue locktite on the screws before I tighten them.  I do the same on the screws that attach the sight to the base.  I have heard of some folks using red locktite but I'm worried about getting the screws out if I want to change something out.  I tend to tighten screws down too much sometimes and I always struggle with that.  I've heard of folks using a torque screwdriver to tighten screws to a certain level, but I'm not sure where to find the right torque screwdriver or what to set it to.  Any help on this topic would be much appreciated.


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I use the blue lock- tite on the screws, but i don't put any on the picatinny rail mounting screw.  I just judge by feel on the screws .. now Wheeler makes one of the best torque screw wrenches from what i have seen.

[Meleagris gallopavo]

I've mounted a couple of reflex red dot sights on my turkey guns in the past few years but I want to check myself before mounting my new one. I typically mount the base to the gun and use blue locktite on the screws before I tighten them.  I do the same on the screws that attach the sight to the base.  I have heard of some folks using red locktite but I'm worried about getting the screws out if I want to change something out.  I tend to tighten screws down too much sometimes and I always struggle with that.  I've heard of folks using a torque screwdriver to tighten screws to a certain level, but I'm not sure where to find the right torque screwdriver or what to set it to.  Any help on this topic would be much appreciated.


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I use the blue lock- tite on the screws, but i don't put any on the picatinny rail mounting screw.  I just judge by feel on the screws .. now Wheeler makes one of the best torque screw wrenches from what i have seen.

Been looking at the Wheeler on Amazon.  Specs on most reflex bases and sights call for 20-30 lbs for base screws and 10-18 lbs on sight screws.  I figure I'll shoot for 25 on the base and 15 on the sight. 


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[USMC0331]

I do not use blue, red or any other color lock tite. I torque to the manufacturer spec. You can use the wheeler torque wrench or buy one at Harbor freight. In most cases your screws will be in inch lbs and not ft lbs.

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[eddie234]

I use the blue on anything that could work loose


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[Meleagris gallopavo]

I do not use blue, red or any other color lock tite. I torque to the manufacturer spec. You can use the wheeler torque wrench or buy one at Harbor freight. In most cases your screws will be in inch lbs and not ft lbs.

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Good catch.  I'm so used to thinking in ft lbs I just automatically typed it. 


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[SumToy]

Blue or Red works.   Only thing with Red you may need little heat to brake them..    Now that is easy to do with a soldering gun.  Place it on the head of the screw and it will warm just the screw.   

[Tom007]

Talked to an engineer at Aimpoint this spring. His "rule of thumb"on Optic/Base screws is "hand tight",  then quarter turn more if you do not have a torque tool. He said he's checked this method, ends up almost right on required torque. I did purchase a Wheeler digital torque Screwdriver that does work nice.

[SumToy]

Talked to an engineer at Aimpoint this spring. His "rule of thumb"on Optic/Base screws is "hand tight",  then quarter turn more if you do not have a torque tool. He said he's checked this method, ends up almost right on required torque. I did purchase a Wheeler digital torque Screwdriver that does work nice.

I have always said  HAND TIGHT but with the internet always have folks with alternative motives the are out to help folks. LOL      We have seen guns strip, mounts strip,  screws broken off  it is wild what happens.    Them are very little screws.   I think burris has it at 10 to 11 inch pounds. 

[Tom007]

Talked to an engineer at Aimpoint this spring. His "rule of thumb"on Optic/Base screws is "hand tight",  then quarter turn more if you do not have a torque tool. He said he's checked this method, ends up almost right on required torque. I did purchase a Wheeler digital torque Screwdriver that does work nice.

I have always said  HAND TIGHT but with the internet always have folks with alternative motives the are out to help folks. LOL      We have seen guns strip, mounts strip,  screws broken off  it is wild what happens.    Them are very little screws.   I think burris has it at 10 to 11 inch pounds.

You bet, one guys hand-tight differs from another guy's. Best bet like you say, torque to specified inch pounds.....

[Meleagris gallopavo]

Just ordered Wheeler torque screwdriver.


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[Tom007]

Just ordered Wheeler torque screwdriver.


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You willl love it, peace of mind that you have the proper torque on any screw. Good luck..

[Meleagris gallopavo]

Just ordered Wheeler torque screwdriver.


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You willl love it, peace of mind that you have the proper torque on any screw. Good luck..

Yeah.  I tightened a Sumtoy base too much once which caused the base pegs to not align well enough for me to use it.  Sumtoy sent me another mount and it worked.  Good folks there at Sumtoy!


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[J-Shaped]

Regardless of what thread locker choice you choose, none of it matters if you fail to degrease both the screws and screw holes before mounting them. This often overlooked step probably contributes to more mounts coming loose than anything else. Most of the screws that come with bases and rings are coated in oil from the factory.

I degrease everything first, then torque to specs with a torque wrench using blue loc tite on most anything I may ever remove the mounts/optics from. On the rare occasion a base, such as a picatinny rail, is going on something I don't ever plan to remove it from, I've even bedded the base then permanently mounted the rail with JB weld. I did this on my most recent turkey gun build making the rail essentially an integrated part of the receiver. Overkill? Maybe, but I have confidence it isn't going to move.

Turkey gun recoil is hard on poorly mounted optics.

[Meleagris gallopavo]

Regardless of what thread locker choice you choose, none of it matters if you fail to degrease both the screws and screw holes before mounting them. This often overlooked step probably contributes to more mounts coming loose than anything else. Most of the screws that come with bases and rings are coated in oil from the factory.

I degrease everything first, then torque to specs with a torque wrench using blue loc tite on most anything I may ever remove the mounts/optics from. On the rare occasion a base, such as a picatinny rail, is going on something I don't ever plan to remove it from, I've even bedded the base then permanently mounted the rail with JB weld. I did this on my most recent turkey gun build making the rail essentially an integrated part of the receiver. Overkill? Maybe, but I have confidence it isn't going to move.

Turkey gun recoil is hard on poorly mounted optics.

Thanks!  Good tip on degreasing the screws.  I had issues with my Mossberg Ultimags but I'm mounting this on a .410 so I think I'll be good.


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