glass and crystal surface cleaning/conditioning

[Meleagris gallopavo]

I know I've seen some of these questions here before but I wanted to ask some specifics.  Usually when I get a glass or crystal call they play best when I first get them and after a bit I encounter problems with the striker not gripping the surface.  So I grab a piece of 150 or 180 grit sand paper or sanding block and rough it up from side to side (or back and forth) in one direction to recondition it.  This isn't working out for me as I keep having the striker slip.  I have heard that you need to swipe it with a scotchbrite pad to clear the gouges of glass debris and resin, and I've done that with limited success.  After thinking on it more it may make sense to hit it with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol to clear it out before conditioning, then clear it out again with rubbing alcohol or wipe it or blow the glass dust away.  There was a time where I thought the glass dust helped the striker by getting into the wood tip but I'm not sure now.  I do believe the only way to get the wood resins out is to use isopropyl alcohol.  If there are some tried and true ways of making the conditioned areas of crystal and glass good as new I'd like to know them.  I think I have more glass and crystal pots than anything else.

[eddie234]

I use drywall screen and sand in one direction (not back and forth) and just blow the "dust" off. Occasionally I'll use scotch brite pad to clean the striker tips.
That's all I do, it doesn't take a lot of pressure on the striker to produce your Turkey sounds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[GunRunner]

Eddie

When you say you use drywall screen and "sand in one direction ".......do you mean you make one sanding stroke say from A to B and then pick up the drywall screen and start again at A and sand to B ?

Or do you sand from A to B, from B to A, back and forth in the same direction?

Just want to be clear on your advice.

Thanks
GunRunner

[rodney gillikin]

conditioning stone does the best but the biggest thing i thing is keeping the surface even so the striker has a good contact patch to grip [flat]so very light pressure, plus the striker tip need to have a good contact patch in order to grip.
plus look at the way the striker runs if you use to much of your wrist in the motion you can loose grip on the back half of you stroke.

when sand a surface do a couple stokes and clean sandpaper to help keep build up off causing a uneven contact patch.

flatness is the key
notice your striker tip when playing and adjust the angle of the pot , think of the surface of the pot and tip of strike needs to be parallel         

[eddie234]

Eddie

When you say you use drywall screen and "sand in one direction ".......do you mean you make one sanding stroke say from A to B and then pick up the drywall screen and start again at A and sand to B ?

Or do you sand from A to B, from B to A, back and forth in the same direction?

Just want to be clear on your advice.

Thanks
GunRunner

From A to B pick it up and start again at A.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[TKE921]

I personally use a stone, run it in only 1 direction and press fairly hard, and wipe off the dust with a small bristle brush or a clean part of my shirt if in the field.  Striker tips I use 220 grit sandpaper very lightly.  Bill Lyman gave me this advice back when I was first learning to run a pot call and it has served me well through the years.

[Meleagris gallopavo]

I personally use a stone, run it in only 1 direction and press fairly hard, and wipe off the dust with a small bristle brush or a clean part of my shirt if in the field.  Striker tips I use 220 grit sandpaper very lightly.  Bill Lyman gave me this advice back when I was first learning to run a pot call and it has served me well through the years.

I may switch to 220 grit sandpaper for the strikers.  Also will go only one direction with conditioning the glass and crystal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fishr64]

I like the medium grit Emory on my glass. I picked up a pack with one piece each of fine, medium and course and use them all at times. I think it depends on the sound you want and how you play the call as to what type conditioner will work best for each individual. I was trying different methods but didn't like sounds and how some of my calls were running. I switched back to the medium grit Emory and had better consistency and sounds and the turkeys liked it better too.

Scotch brite for the striker tips, spun in the palm of a cupped hand and spun in on direction works for me as well.

[EZ]

So I grab a piece of 150 or 180 grit sand paper or sanding block and rough it up from side to side (or back and forth) in one direction to recondition it.  This isn't working out for me as I keep having the striker slip. 

I think you're WAY too fine with the sandpaper. I don't think I've ever used anything finer than 80 grit on glass, then just blow the glass dust off. Also, with the striker (wood), I just take my pocket knife perpendicular to the tip and scrape with the grain to remove glass dust. Just like new. Try it.

[Chris O]

So I grab a piece of 150 or 180 grit sand paper or sanding block and rough it up from side to side (or back and forth) in one direction to recondition it.  This isn't working out for me as I keep having the striker slip. 

I think you're WAY too fine with the sandpaper. I don't think I've ever used anything finer than 80 grit on glass, then just blow the glass dust off. Also, with the striker (wood), I just take my pocket knife perpendicular to the tip and scrape with the grain to remove glass dust. Just like new. Try it.

After you condition your surface with sand paper or drywall screen try going over it with green scotch bright and see if that helps it has me on a couple calls


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Meleagris gallopavo]

Good advice folks.  I appreciate it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bbcoach]

120 grit drywall screen works the best for me.  Doesn't clog up like sandpaper.  I prefer 9 to 3 back and forth and play 12 to 6.  Give those strikers a little scotch brite and maybe a light 150 sandpaper sanding from time to time.

[EZ]

So I grab a piece of 150 or 180 grit sand paper or sanding block and rough it up from side to side (or back and forth) in one direction to recondition it.  This isn't working out for me as I keep having the striker slip. 

I think you're WAY too fine with the sandpaper. I don't think I've ever used anything finer than 80 grit on glass, then just blow the glass dust off. Also, with the striker (wood), I just take my pocket knife perpendicular to the tip and scrape with the grain to remove glass dust. Just like new. Try it.

After you condition your surface with sand paper or drywall screen try going over it with green scotch bright and see if that helps it has me on a couple calls


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Scotch bright on Glass? I would think that way to soft and would result in polishing instead of roughing. No?

[Chris O]

I never thought it would help but it gets rid of all the dust. I tried it when I noticed Brad Roberts sent a piece with one of his calls. Try it and see what you think EZ. You can always go back over it.Let me know what you think.

[Chris O]

I started questioning my advice so I went down and tried 3 calls all from different makers. I am only going over the ruffed surface about 3 or 4 times  with scotch brite then blowing off the dust . 2 calls I couldn't really tell much difference but the 3rd call seemed to grip a little better .