Conditioning calls

[mtns2hunt]

How do you condition your call. I have been using a stone but it is a rather fine grit: probably wore down some too. It appears that deeper scouring marks provide more and better grip and sound from the striker. I have been thinking of a newer more course stone or sandpaper. But before I get drastic thought I would ask what the general consensus might be. Thanks.

[bbcoach]

Slate---scotchbrite
Crystal/glass---Stone, Dry wall screen, 150 grit sandpaper
Ceramic---Dry wall screen or 150 sandpaper
Strikers---Scotchbrite or light sandpaper if needed

[mtns2hunt]

Slate---scotchbrite
Crystal/glass---Stone, Dry wall screen, 150 grit sandpaper
Ceramic---Dry wall screen or 150 sandpaper
Strikers---Scotchbrite or light sandpaper if needed

Thank you for your reply. I basically follow the advice you have presented above but my calls do not sound as well as they did last year. I was thinking that if they were scored with deeper lines from the stone, sandpaper or even dry wall screen they would grab the striker better and sound more realistic. If that makes sense.

[bbcoach]

Slate---scotchbrite
Crystal/glass---Stone, Dry wall screen, 150 grit sandpaper
Ceramic---Dry wall screen or 150 sandpaper
Strikers---Scotchbrite or light sandpaper if needed

Thank you for your reply. I basically follow the advice you have presented above but my calls do not sound as well as they did last year. I was thinking that if they were scored with deeper lines from the stone, sandpaper or even dry wall screen they would grab the striker better and sound more realistic. If that makes sense.

Two things that may help.  1. Clean the tips of your strikers with a new piece of scotch brite.  If that doesn't work then lightly sand them with 150 grit sand paper.  And I do mean lightly.  You want them to bite the surface of the call as well.  2. When scuffing the calls, only go in one direction.  I prefer 9 to 3 (east and west) and play them 12 to 6 (north and south).

[mtns2hunt]

Slate---scotchbrite
Crystal/glass---Stone, Dry wall screen, 150 grit sandpaper
Ceramic---Dry wall screen or 150 sandpaper
Strikers---Scotchbrite or light sandpaper if needed

Thank you for your reply. I basically follow the advice you have presented above but my calls do not sound as well as they did last year. I was thinking that if they were scored with deeper lines from the stone, sandpaper or even dry wall screen they would grab the striker better and sound more realistic. If that makes sense.

Two things that may help.  1. Clean the tips of your strikers with a new piece of scotch brite.  If that doesn't work then lightly sand them with 150 grit sand paper.  And I do mean lightly.  You want them to bite the surface of the call as well.  2. When scuffing the calls, only go in one direction.  I prefer 9 to 3 (east and west) and play them 12 to 6 (north and south).

Yes, that is the info I am looking for as it does not seem that my strikers are biteing the call. I get more of a squeak. I just received a Holloran MM2 and it plays very well and the striker is biteing good. As I touch up my calls I want them to sound just as well. I will try the 150 grit sandpaper. The call I am having trouble with is the Crystal Mistress which sounded fine last year.

[bbcoach]

I have a Mistress as well.  I personally use 150 grit dry wall screen, because it won't clog up like sand paper, and sand 9 to 3 only.  I'm assuming you are using David's two piece dymondwood striker that came with it.  Take the striker and hold the dry wall screen in one palm and go in a circular motion with the striker, roughing up the bottom and then chamfer the sides at the bottom slightly.  Play the call from 12 to 6 and let me know how she sounds.

[Crghss]

Slate---scotchbrite
Crystal/glass---Stone, Dry wall screen, 150 grit sandpaper
Ceramic---Dry wall screen or 150 sandpaper
Strikers---Scotchbrite or light sandpaper if needed

This just about covers it.

I went away from stone to using drywall screen for CM.

[old3toe]

 I think a lot of people don't realize the importance of really getting into the surface of certain calls like glass and aluminum. You really have to cut into it with something coarse and then finish up with something finer just like you guys already mentioned but this isn't accomplished in a couple of strokes of the coarse paper. It takes a little time and arm work to get into it. Then finish with dry wall screen or finer paper. But when you get it right you'll notice the difference in the sound. Also as mentioned keep your striker tips scuffed and clean as well.

[bear hunter]

How do you condition the green glass thats on a Lonnie Sneed outlaw hen?

[bbcoach]

How do you condition the green glass thats on a Lonnie Sneed outlaw hen?

If I'm not mistaken Lonnie sends a piece of 150 grit sandpaper with it.  Dry wall screen should work well also.  Someone that has gotten one lately from him, correct me if I'm wrong.

[Josh_Alloy_Calls]

I have noticed that my conditioning stones get loaded up with dust from the glass/crystal.
When that happens, I take a piece of 120 grit sandpaper and "dress" the stone with that.  Same process as dressing a grinding wheel. You need to expose the new grit within the stone.

I lay the paper flat on my workbench, and drag the stone across it a few times.  This will ruin the paper for sure, but it works great.

[sasquatch1]

I like using a sanding sponge. One with different grits on each side. I cut them in 1/4s and carry a piece with me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[bear hunter]

How do you condition the green glass thats on a Lonnie Sneed outlaw hen?

If I'm not mistaken Lonnie sends a piece of 150 grit sandpaper with it.  Dry wall screen should work well also.  Someone that has gotten one lately from him, correct me if I'm wrong.

Thank you.

[mtns2hunt]

I have a Mistress as well.  I personally use 150 grit dry wall screen, because it won't clog up like sand paper, and sand 9 to 3 only.  I'm assuming you are using David's two piece dymondwood striker that came with it.  Take the striker and hold the dry wall screen in one palm and go in a circular motion with the striker, roughing up the bottom and then chamfer the sides at the bottom slightly.  Play the call from 12 to 6 and let me know how she sounds.

Well, the drywall screen did the trick. Call sounds like it used to maybe even better. I had to use 120 grit as I could not find 150 anywhere. I went to 4 different stores. There must be a lot of Turkey hunters here. Also lightly touched up my strikers. This makes me very happy as I am seeing alot of turkey sign and caught a very nice bird on my trail camera. Same location I called in two last year. Things are starting to look up.

Josh_Alloy_Calls "I have noticed that my conditioning stones get loaded up with dust from the glass/crystal.
When that happens, I take a piece of 120 grit sandpaper and "dress" the stone with that.  Same process as dressing a grinding wheel. You need to expose the new grit within the stone.

I lay the paper flat on my workbench, and drag the stone across it a few times.  This will ruin the paper for sure, but it works great."

I tried dressing my stone as you suggested. I have an old "BUTSKIS" Walnut glass call that I have been carrying for several years and has frequently produced but it to seemed to have lost its luster. Cleaned my stone as you suggested and brought it back to life. The combination of using drywall screen and dressing my stone has certainly improved my potcall performance. Thank you all for the expert advice.

[bbcoach]

Glad the advice helped.  Don't be afraid to condition your calls.  If they aren't sounding right give them a stroke or two and don't forget the strikers.  Good luck and GREAT hunting!