Passed my trapping exam, hoping to help the turkey, deer and rabbit population by getting some coyote, fox, opossum and so on out of out hunting area. Now I just have to figure out what I am doing off paper!
Trapping once you get into it is crazy fun, and if you're doing it in interest of your turkey hunting, you'll be totally hooked once it pays off in both fur and more gobblers to kill.
I will recommend you start with two particular trapping methods and research around them to hasten your skills with these particular traps, and where/how to set them, and various methods and baits used for these traps and all the tools and other things required outside of just the trap itself.
The first is for raccoons (occasional opposums, and the rare skunk is caught as well). This is critical for mainting how many nest bandits you have running around, as raccoons kill far more turkeys from eating eggs every year than coyotes can run down live birds. I would STRONGLY recommend using Duke DP (Dogproof) traps for your coon sets as they are very easy to set and are the most effective of any coon trap we've used. They are definitely a little pricier than common foothold traps, but the design in my opinion is what catches more coons, and you won't catch stray dogs or cats that are curiously checking out your sets. Minimal research on these style traps should also show why these traps are definitely the most effective for raccoons and if you can only start with one thing it should definitely be with these.
The next method will be a "catch all" as far as the way you make the set will determine your targeted species, but it is using 2x20 conibear and a bucket. This will primarily be for coyote, bobcat, and fox, but raccoons are caught this way as well. You will want to research cubby style sets using conibears for getting after the yotes, bobcats, and fox. The learning curve on this is huge, and starting out don't get discouraged with little success as it is not easy trapping those particular species, opposed to the coon and DP traps you'll figure out and should have success very quickly.
A third suggestion to increase the likelihood of getting rid of more yotes is to also hunt them on the side. While out checking traps, if you have access to a caller or purchase one, make a couple 25-30 minute sits in a couple locations to see if you can't call one up and shoot it.
I definitely don't know everything there is to know about trapping, but I've grown up around it and tagged along with my father who works nuisance damage control for the Missouri Conservation Dept. since I was a young boy. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have some questions as you go and I'll be more than happy to help or try to steer you in the right direction. Trapping is an incredibly rewarding hobby, and definitely isn't necessarily a cheap thing to startup either, but once you start getting fur on the ground you can make some pretty decent money if the market is good, and if it ain't well you can attempt to atleast make your money back to buy more traps.
Trapping is great fun. Some animals are easier it seems than others. Canines take some learning/patience for most guys.
I don't know if they're adamant about fur handling in your state classes but research how to put up hides before you need to so you're prepared with what you need
Good for you!! :icon_thumright: I watch some trapping on shows like Mountain Men, Last Alaskans, etc. Looks like a pretty cool thing to do. Maybe one day I'll learn how to do it.
Here's a video I edited several years back for my pals at Hoosier Trapper Supply who taught me. You might recognize Greg and Aaron from The Hunting Public! I'm no expert which is why I made the video / lots of folks think you have to have years of experience. You don't. Just some woodsman skills and a good mentor!!
https://youtu.be/GrXXHSmxalI
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Congrats and nice video. I wish everyone would support a trapping organization. Trappers have fought many anti battles over the years and preserved the rights to trap. They are always on the front line protecting it. If you think that I don't care about trapping because I only hunt or fish. You are mistaken because once the antis get rid of one thing they are on to the next thing they don't want you to hunt or fish either.
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Quote from: HookedonHooks on September 23, 2018, 12:15:55 AM
Trapping once you get into it is crazy fun, and if you're doing it in interest of your turkey hunting, you'll be totally hooked once it pays off in both fur and more gobblers to kill.
I will recommend you start with two particular trapping methods and research around them to hasten your skills with these particular traps, and where/how to set them, and various methods and baits used for these traps and all the tools and other things required outside of just the trap itself.
The first is for raccoons (occasional opposums, and the rare skunk is caught as well). This is critical for mainting how many nest bandits you have running around, as raccoons kill far more turkeys from eating eggs every year than coyotes can run down live birds. I would STRONGLY recommend using Duke DP (Dogproof) traps for your coon sets as they are very easy to set and are the most effective of any coon trap we've used. They are definitely a little pricier than common foothold traps, but the design in my opinion is what catches more coons, and you won't catch stray dogs or cats that are curiously checking out your sets. Minimal research on these style traps should also show why these traps are definitely the most effective for raccoons and if you can only start with one thing it should definitely be with these.
The next method will be a "catch all" as far as the way you make the set will determine your targeted species, but it is using 2x20 conibear and a bucket. This will primarily be for coyote, bobcat, and fox, but raccoons are caught this way as well. You will want to research cubby style sets using conibears for getting after the yotes, bobcats, and fox. The learning curve on this is huge, and starting out don't get discouraged with little success as it is not easy trapping those particular species, opposed to the coon and DP traps you'll figure out and should have success very quickly.
A third suggestion to increase the likelihood of getting rid of more yotes is to also hunt them on the side. While out checking traps, if you have access to a caller or purchase one, make a couple 25-30 minute sits in a couple locations to see if you can't call one up and shoot it.
I definitely don't know everything there is to know about trapping, but I've grown up around it and tagged along with my father who works nuisance damage control for the Missouri Conservation Dept. since I was a young boy. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have some questions as you go and I'll be more than happy to help or try to steer you in the right direction. Trapping is an incredibly rewarding hobby, and definitely isn't necessarily a cheap thing to startup either, but once you start getting fur on the ground you can make some pretty decent money if the market is good, and if it ain't well you can attempt to atleast make your money back to buy more traps.
Sorry for the delay in replying, I have been bopping all day. Yes the Duke DP (Dogproof) traps or encapsulating traps as they also call them here are going to be a big thing as dogs and cats are in the area as will be sweet smelling baits as cats and dogs are not as attracted to them (Or so they tell me anyway) They one type of trap I do not intend to use are body gripping traps, not good for the areas I will be trapping or the species I am after as well.
Yes learning to do sets will be a big challenge for me, I have been driving a Mennonite around for years on his trapping line and that is how I got interested and he is going to be teaching me a lot as we go out on sets together. He is normally very successful every year.
We do hunt them both by calling and with dogs, both ways are a lot of fun. (Hunt coon and Coyote with dogs)
For me my biggest worries are making the set, because of my past car accidents kneeling is very painful for me and I can't squat for long, I am going to have to figure out some kind of scent free padded kneeling mat that can be easily transported.
Quote from: Bowguy on September 23, 2018, 05:01:23 AM
Trapping is great fun. Some animals are easier it seems than others. Canines take some learning/patience for most guys.
I don't know if they're adamant about fur handling in your state classes but research how to put up hides before you need to so you're prepared with what you need
Yes they sure were adamant about them. The biggest interest to me will be beaver hides though that won't be this year but I would like to get at least one in my trapping career.
Quote from: RutnNStrutn on September 23, 2018, 02:56:04 PM
Good for you!! :icon_thumright: I watch some trapping on shows like Mountain Men, Last Alaskans, etc. Looks like a pretty cool thing to do. Maybe one day I'll learn how to do it.
I have not watched Mountain Men as of yet, intend to but I really like Last Alaskans. Those gals/guys have it really hard out there.
Quote from: jryser on September 23, 2018, 03:12:46 PM
Here's a video I edited several years back for my pals at Hoosier Trapper Supply who taught me. You might recognize Greg and Aaron from The Hunting Public! I'm no expert which is why I made the video / lots of folks think you have to have years of experience. You don't. Just some woodsman skills and a good mentor!!
https://youtu.be/GrXXHSmxalI
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, I saved that to my watch list and will be sure to watch it this week. The guy that is going to be mentoring me has been doing it for a very very long time, since he was legal which would be I think 12 and he is 50 now and he normally does very well. (Not last year though, we had a crazy amount of rain here)
Quote from: Sir-diealot on September 23, 2018, 09:17:10 PM
Quote from: HookedonHooks on September 23, 2018, 12:15:55 AM
Trapping once you get into it is crazy fun, and if you're doing it in interest of your turkey hunting, you'll be totally hooked once it pays off in both fur and more gobblers to kill.
I will recommend you start with two particular trapping methods and research around them to hasten your skills with these particular traps, and where/how to set them, and various methods and baits used for these traps and all the tools and other things required outside of just the trap itself.
The first is for raccoons (occasional opposums, and the rare skunk is caught as well). This is critical for mainting how many nest bandits you have running around, as raccoons kill far more turkeys from eating eggs every year than coyotes can run down live birds. I would STRONGLY recommend using Duke DP (Dogproof) traps for your coon sets as they are very easy to set and are the most effective of any coon trap we've used. They are definitely a little pricier than common foothold traps, but the design in my opinion is what catches more coons, and you won't catch stray dogs or cats that are curiously checking out your sets. Minimal research on these style traps should also show why these traps are definitely the most effective for raccoons and if you can only start with one thing it should definitely be with these.
The next method will be a "catch all" as far as the way you make the set will determine your targeted species, but it is using 2x20 conibear and a bucket. This will primarily be for coyote, bobcat, and fox, but raccoons are caught this way as well. You will want to research cubby style sets using conibears for getting after the yotes, bobcats, and fox. The learning curve on this is huge, and starting out don't get discouraged with little success as it is not easy trapping those particular species, opposed to the coon and DP traps you'll figure out and should have success very quickly.
A third suggestion to increase the likelihood of getting rid of more yotes is to also hunt them on the side. While out checking traps, if you have access to a caller or purchase one, make a couple 25-30 minute sits in a couple locations to see if you can't call one up and shoot it.
I definitely don't know everything there is to know about trapping, but I've grown up around it and tagged along with my father who works nuisance damage control for the Missouri Conservation Dept. since I was a young boy. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have some questions as you go and I'll be more than happy to help or try to steer you in the right direction. Trapping is an incredibly rewarding hobby, and definitely isn't necessarily a cheap thing to startup either, but once you start getting fur on the ground you can make some pretty decent money if the market is good, and if it ain't well you can attempt to atleast make your money back to buy more traps.
Sorry for the delay in replying, I have been bopping all day. Yes the Duke DP (Dogproof) traps or encapsulating traps as they also call them here are going to be a big thing as dogs and cats are in the area as will be sweet smelling baits as cats and dogs are not as attracted to them (Or so they tell me anyway) They one type of trap I do not intend to use are body gripping traps, not good for the areas I will be trapping or the species I am after as well.
Yes learning to do sets will be a big challenge for me, I have been driving a Mennonite around for years on his trapping line and that is how I got interested and he is going to be teaching me a lot as we go out on sets together. He is normally very successful every year.
We do hunt them both by calling and with dogs, both ways are a lot of fun. (Hunt coon and Coyote with dogs)
For me my biggest worries are making the set, because of my past car accidents kneeling is very painful for me and I can't squat for long, I am going to have to figure out some kind of scent free padded kneeling mat that can be easily transported.
I might suggest some coveralls that you only wear on the trapline. Save you the extra weight of something to kneel on and you can pad em or wear knee pads underneath.
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Quote from: Chris O on September 23, 2018, 06:27:15 PM
Congrats and nice video. I wish everyone would support a trapping organization. Trappers have fought many anti battles over the years and preserved the rights to trap. They are always on the front line protecting it. If you think that I don't care about trapping because I only hunt or fish. You are mistaken because once the antis get rid of one thing they are on to the next thing they don't want you to hunt or fish either.
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You have that right! This is a major reason I went for the license, to be honest I really don't know how much trapping my body will let me do, I hope a lot, but regardless if we do not stand together they will crush us. I can't stand crossbows, to me it is not archery, but I will back that guy with a crossbow being able to use it til the day I die (Though I will be trying to talk him into a bow :) )
Same as waterfowl hunting, I have not done it but will be trying it as soon as I can get a truck, may not like it but want to try it at least once to say I did it. I have several guys that have told me they will take me as soon as I can get to them.
I enjoy muzzleloading, I own percussions and an inline and would like to get a flintlock and a wheellock one day.
Love bow hunting, honestly do not know if I love to bow hunt more or turkey hunt more. I know one day I intend to bow hunt turkey. I own a compound and a recurve, I want to get much better with a recurve. The debate between which is better is stupid, we need to stick together.
I love to fish, I have never fished in salt water but would love to. I don't understand those that bash freshwater or bash salt water, we are doing the same thing and need to stick together.
I shotgun and rifle hunt, love them both, looking forward to it this year. We need to stick with the guys that are using other tools to enjoy the same pastime.
About the one and only thing I have ever seen in person that I have been against is snag fishing, I see no sport to it whatsoever. But if it is legal then it is your right to do it.
Quote from: jryser on September 23, 2018, 09:42:18 PM
Quote from: Sir-diealot on September 23, 2018, 09:17:10 PM
Quote from: HookedonHooks on September 23, 2018, 12:15:55 AM
Trapping once you get into it is crazy fun, and if you're doing it in interest of your turkey hunting, you'll be totally hooked once it pays off in both fur and more gobblers to kill.
I will recommend you start with two particular trapping methods and research around them to hasten your skills with these particular traps, and where/how to set them, and various methods and baits used for these traps and all the tools and other things required outside of just the trap itself.
The first is for raccoons (occasional opposums, and the rare skunk is caught as well). This is critical for mainting how many nest bandits you have running around, as raccoons kill far more turkeys from eating eggs every year than coyotes can run down live birds. I would STRONGLY recommend using Duke DP (Dogproof) traps for your coon sets as they are very easy to set and are the most effective of any coon trap we've used. They are definitely a little pricier than common foothold traps, but the design in my opinion is what catches more coons, and you won't catch stray dogs or cats that are curiously checking out your sets. Minimal research on these style traps should also show why these traps are definitely the most effective for raccoons and if you can only start with one thing it should definitely be with these.
The next method will be a "catch all" as far as the way you make the set will determine your targeted species, but it is using 2x20 conibear and a bucket. This will primarily be for coyote, bobcat, and fox, but raccoons are caught this way as well. You will want to research cubby style sets using conibears for getting after the yotes, bobcats, and fox. The learning curve on this is huge, and starting out don't get discouraged with little success as it is not easy trapping those particular species, opposed to the coon and DP traps you'll figure out and should have success very quickly.
A third suggestion to increase the likelihood of getting rid of more yotes is to also hunt them on the side. While out checking traps, if you have access to a caller or purchase one, make a couple 25-30 minute sits in a couple locations to see if you can't call one up and shoot it.
I definitely don't know everything there is to know about trapping, but I've grown up around it and tagged along with my father who works nuisance damage control for the Missouri Conservation Dept. since I was a young boy. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have some questions as you go and I'll be more than happy to help or try to steer you in the right direction. Trapping is an incredibly rewarding hobby, and definitely isn't necessarily a cheap thing to startup either, but once you start getting fur on the ground you can make some pretty decent money if the market is good, and if it ain't well you can attempt to atleast make your money back to buy more traps.
Sorry for the delay in replying, I have been bopping all day. Yes the Duke DP (Dogproof) traps or encapsulating traps as they also call them here are going to be a big thing as dogs and cats are in the area as will be sweet smelling baits as cats and dogs are not as attracted to them (Or so they tell me anyway) They one type of trap I do not intend to use are body gripping traps, not good for the areas I will be trapping or the species I am after as well.
Yes learning to do sets will be a big challenge for me, I have been driving a Mennonite around for years on his trapping line and that is how I got interested and he is going to be teaching me a lot as we go out on sets together. He is normally very successful every year.
We do hunt them both by calling and with dogs, both ways are a lot of fun. (Hunt coon and Coyote with dogs)
For me my biggest worries are making the set, because of my past car accidents kneeling is very painful for me and I can't squat for long, I am going to have to figure out some kind of scent free padded kneeling mat that can be easily transported.
I might suggest some coveralls that you only wear on the trapline. Save you the extra weight of something to kneel on and you can pad em or wear knee pads underneath.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, a very good idea. Padding something like that is a good thought. I have never had good luck with knee pads, especially the hard ones. I can kneel in deep mud with very small or not stones or in nice soft moss though funnily enough.
Congrats on passing exam!
Quote from: Sir-diealot on September 23, 2018, 09:47:05 PM
About the one and only thing I have ever seen in person that I have been against is snag fishing, I see no sport to it whatsoever. But if it is legal then it is your right to do it.
I do agree with everything you said regarding sticking together, but would like to add to the final statement to maybe change your views on it.
To my knowledge, the only fish you can legally and intentionally snag pretty well anywhere in the US is paddlefish. Accidental snags of game species during the act of intentional snagging, typically must be released, just as accidental snags with a crankbait on a bass or crappie are also to be released even though no one does. I don't 100% agree with it, because in the act of intentional snagging if you snag a large catfish and injure it to the point that it will certainly die, you are still to realease it esssentially wasting the animal. Outside of that one negative, snagging is actually a very "sporting" endeavor and is done for the same reasons other species are targeted whether it be with rod and reel, bow and arrow, or a firearm. Paddlefish don't eat anything but Plankton, so it would be extremely rare and accidental to catch them using any other fishing methods outside of snagging. Snagging gets a bad wrap in that it's basically the dove hunting of the fishing world, everyone's sitting on a bucket, drinking beers, and ripping hooks through the water in hopes to hook into a paddlefish. Snagging is also very tightly regulated and done so that snagging season is during the paddlefish "run" so as to control population numbers of Paddlefish, and so happens to be at a time of year that mitigates the amount of other species of fish accidentally snagged.
I can definitely see how it's not everyone's cup of tea, but until you've done it, you don't have any understanding of how much work it actually is to snag all day. I just don't think it's right to not call it "sporting" in that it actually takes a lot of work, and is done for the same reasons people fill baskets of crappie or shoot a trash can full of carp, because like you previously mentioned it's all the same thing just a different method of achieving the same goal for conservation efforts. I'm not saying you're in the wrong for having that particular opinion either, just maybe trying to shed light on why snagging is not only necessary but why it is the way it is too.
Quote from: HookedonHooks on September 24, 2018, 03:44:51 PM
Quote from: Sir-diealot on September 23, 2018, 09:47:05 PM
About the one and only thing I have ever seen in person that I have been against is snag fishing, I see no sport to it whatsoever. But if it is legal then it is your right to do it.
I do agree with everything you said regarding sticking together, but would like to add to the final statement to maybe change your views on it.
To my knowledge, the only fish you can legally and intentionally snag pretty well anywhere in the US is paddlefish. Accidental snags of game species during the act of intentional snagging, typically must be released, just as accidental snags with a crankbait on a bass or crappie are also to be released even though no one does. I don't 100% agree with it, because in the act of intentional snagging if you snag a large catfish and injure it to the point that it will certainly die, you are still to realease it esssentially wasting the animal. Outside of that one negative, snagging is actually a very "sporting" endeavor and is done for the same reasons other species are targeted whether it be with rod and reel, bow and arrow, or a firearm. Paddlefish don't eat anything but Plankton, so it would be extremely rare and accidental to catch them using any other fishing methods outside of snagging. Snagging gets a bad wrap in that it's basically the dove hunting of the fishing world, everyone's sitting on a bucket, drinking beers, and ripping hooks through the water in hopes to hook into a paddlefish. Snagging is also very tightly regulated and done so that snagging season is during the paddlefish "run" so as to control population numbers of Paddlefish, and so happens to be at a time of year that mitigates the amount of other species of fish accidentally snagged.
I can definitely see how it's not everyone's cup of tea, but until you've done it, you don't have any understanding of how much work it actually is to snag all day. I just don't think it's right to not call it "sporting" in that it actually takes a lot of work, and is done for the same reasons people fill baskets of crappie or shoot a trash can full of carp, because like you previously mentioned it's all the same thing just a different method of achieving the same goal for conservation efforts. I'm not saying you're in the wrong for having that particular opinion either, just maybe trying to shed light on why snagging is not only necessary but why it is the way it is too.
Okay the first thing I want to let you know is that I have done it, that is one of the reasons I am against it. It was just to easy to do, not fishing at all. I lived above the dam that is in the video I will share, 2 minute walk down a trail and you were there. It was done for King Salmon there. What I got to see year after year is people doing this, if they caught the males they would just chuck them to the side of the river and leave them to die, they were after the females to get the eggs. (And some would even chuck them to the side)
My father was dead set against it as he did not see it as sporting and I never understood why until I did it myself, it was like shooting fish in a barrel, every third swipe you would get one if not almost every when they were really running. If not them you were getting other fish and scarring them up, nothing like fishing with bait.
We used to stand by and wait for them to chuck one to the side and put them in a 5 gallon bucket and my father would make Salmon patties out of them. The female would also be drained of their eggs and we would either tie them up in the stepmothers old stockings and use them ourselves for fishing or when we got to many to use do the same and sell them to the local bait and tackle shop down the road in Olcott. I seem to remember covering the eggs in Borax as well but don't remember why and then we would sell them by the bucket load.
At least they were not going to waist that way. We would take the ones that we had tied and go down to Headly's* Pier in Olcott and fish all night long into the late morning hours. That is one thing I miss about living in that area, no good fighting fish were I live, I miss the Shnook, Coho and Salmon that were there, that is why I am going to get a ultralight setup by the Spring.
Here is that video, skip to 1:08 to see daylight. I lived up the hill to the right side of the damn where they are filming there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-QaThsPVL4
I wasn't aware people snagged salmon... Actually baffles me knowing how fragile those fish are, they certainly wouldn't stand a chance after being snagged. Being that Salmon can be caught with more traditional methods of fishing, though they don't feed heavy during the run, that should be part of the challenge and I definitely see where you're coming from.
I will say this though as far paddlefish snagging goes, too easy is one of the last to come to mind. You are typically using three 14/0 treble hooks and a 16-20 oz lead weight at the base ripping them through the water and at the end of the day is one helluva workout. Being you can't see the paddlefish as you would the salmon, this also presents a different challenge. This is the only way to actually target these particular fish though, so snagging them is a necessity when it comes to the sport of targeting paddlefish.
Comparing the two is like apples and oranges, the only similarity is it's "snagging". Where I'm from snagging is paddlefishing, and where you're from it's sounds like it's a free for all salmon slaughter. Thank you for enlightening me on salmon snagging though, and I can say that is something I will never take part of for similar reasons that you won't, but if that's what a man wants to do, I suppose more power to him.
Quote from: HookedonHooks on September 24, 2018, 07:58:34 PM
I wasn't aware people snagged salmon... Actually baffles me knowing how fragile those fish are, they certainly wouldn't stand a chance after being snagged. Being that Salmon can be caught with more traditional methods of fishing, though they don't feed heavy during the run, that should be part of the challenge and I definitely see where you're coming from.
I will say this though as far paddlefish snagging goes, too easy is one of the last to come to mind. You are typically using three 14/0 treble hooks and a 16-20 oz lead weight at the base ripping them through the water and at the end of the day is one helluva workout. Being you can't see the paddlefish as you would the salmon, this also presents a different challenge. This is the only way to actually target these particular fish though, so snagging them is a necessity when it comes to the sport of targeting paddlefish.
Comparing the two is like apples and oranges, the only similarity is it's "snagging". Where I'm from snagging is paddlefishing, and where you're from it's sounds like it's a free for all salmon slaughter. Thank you for enlightening me on salmon snagging though, and I can say that is something I will never take part of for similar reasons that you won't, but if that's what a man wants to do, I suppose more power to him.
Sounds like they were both done in much the same way.
Those Duke DP's can be modified to fire as a push/pull system rather than just the single method they come with. Personally, I prefer the Z Trap. Saves me some time and they're not that much more money. Canines aren't hard or I'm the luckiest guy in the world when it comes to catching them. The years I've trapped I've hammered red foxes. Coyotes not so much but if you're catching foxes, your coyote population is generally lower than some would like to admit. Not gonna have high numbers of each in the same area. Not certain about PA regulations but a lot of states won't allow body grip traps to be set on land for reasons ill not discuss openly on this site. I didn't take the time to read all of this so my sincerest apologies if these points have already been discussed. If u need a hand, lemme know. Be glad to help out.
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Quote from: wvmntnhick on September 24, 2018, 09:20:01 PM
Those Duke DP's can be modified to fire as a push/pull system rather than just the single method they come with. Personally, I prefer the Z Trap. Saves me some time and they're not that much more money. Canines aren't hard or I'm the luckiest guy in the world when it comes to catching them. The years I've trapped I've hammered red foxes. Coyotes not so much but if you're catching foxes, your coyote population is generally lower than some would like to admit. Not gonna have high numbers of each in the same area. Not certain about PA regulations but a lot of states won't allow body grip traps to be set on land for reasons ill not discuss openly on this site. I didn't take the time to read all of this so my sincerest apologies if these points have already been discussed. If u need a hand, lemme know. Be glad to help out.
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Thank you much. As far as coyote in my area it is the opposite, we have far more than people want to admit. Body gripping traps are allowed up to 6inches but it is not good around here because to many farm critters, they only want you using them for aquatic animals like beaver and muskrat. We do try to target coyote quite a bit though.
Congrats on passing the coarse. I love to trap. So much that if they allowed trapping in the spring where I live, I don't know how much Turkey hunting I would do. Seeing a coyote in your trap is like walking up on a dead gobbler. Trapping is a lot of hard work. Lots of good lures and traps out there, but the biggest thing when trapping is being on the right LOCATION. Good luck
Quote from: falltoms on September 28, 2018, 07:55:33 PM
Congrats on passing the coarse. I love to trap. So much that if they allowed trapping in the spring where I live, I don't know how much Turkey hunting I would do. Seeing a coyote in your trap is like walking up on a dead gobbler. Trapping is a lot of hard work. Lots of good lures and traps out there, but the biggest thing when trapping is being on the right LOCATION. Good luck
Thank you very much, I am looking forward to getting my first catch.
Well trapping season has started, found out I have a problem, because of my hand problems I can't seem to set a trap with my hands. I can do it sitting down and putting my foot down on a leaver but not sure about doing it standing with my balance being not quite right. (Much better than it used to be though) When I took the course the instructor had a gadget that would squeeze the thing down for you then you could set the devise that holds the jaw on the one side and then set the other jaw. Does anybody here know what that thing is called? This is the trap I am trying to practice on.
You should google 1 hand trap setters. I am not sure if he makes anything for long spring traps but he does for coil spring traps. I have a pair for setting MB- 750 beaver traps and a smaller pair for my son to use for 1 1/2 coilsprings. There is also a 1 hand dog proof setter made by someone else I believe. I am not sure where this guy is out of so let me know if you can't find anything on them I can do some digging And get some info for you
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Quote from: Chris O on October 28, 2018, 04:50:05 AM
You should google 1 hand trap setters. I am not sure if he makes anything for long spring traps but he does for coil spring traps. I have a pair for setting MB- 750 beaver traps and a smaller pair for my son to use for 1 1/2 coilsprings. There is also a 1 hand dog proof setter made by someone else I believe. I am not sure where this guy is out of so let me know if you can't find anything on them I can do some digging And get some info for you
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Thanks Chris, after I posted this I found out it was just something he gave me to practice on, we are going to be using Bridger #3 4 Coil traps modified for Canadian Humane Laws (I think that was the last 3 words are correct I know Canadian and Humane are) I did find these but I may have to wait to trap til next year, I don't have the money to get them and I have two people here that I want to get taken care of from when I lost that money, I don't like to break my word and still feel bad about the way that went down and want to make that right. https://www.southernsnares.com/products/one-hand-setters?variant=16626835715
I am guessing you mean the same ones? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oby8-2gbllE
Yep that's them, it's a great product. Good luck on your trapping.
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Quote from: Chris O on October 28, 2018, 03:49:41 PM
Yep that's them, it's a great product. Good luck on your trapping.
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I have been reading about them in a few places and they have a good reputation. One thing I really like on them that the others I have seen don't have is the little safety hook, I really think it is something they should all have. Thanks bud and tight chains.
Interesting you would like to catch beaver. I trapped Rockdale County Georgia in the 1970s and caught many. They were among the more difficult animals to skin because the hide adheres tightly to the carcass along the back of the animal. There are two ways to skin one, rough skin and clean skin. Rough is quicker and easier as it leaves a lot of flesh on the hide. That leaves a lot of work fleshing it later though, and for that bit of work you will need a dual-handle draw knife. I liked one side dull and other side sharp.
Alternatively, clean skinning a beaver with a rounded blade sharp knife (very carefully so you don't nick the hide) will ideally leave all the flesh on the carcass, but it takes a lot more time. No need for fleshing with clean skin method.
After skinning/fleshing I tacked hides out round on big sheet of plywood to dry for a week or so in the shed, but away from mice. Beaver are the round shaped brown pelts in the center of the pic.
Also, Beaver meat is delicious, but tends to be fatty. Good fried.
Watch YouTube videos that show this stuff.
Beavers are a pile of work with little to no payout. If they're somewhere that they're causing a problem, I'll go after them. If not, it's not worth the hassle. K9's are quick and generally pay better. If you can get enough castor saved up, that's a different story.
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Quote from: Oconeeguy on October 29, 2018, 09:21:46 AM
Interesting you would like to catch beaver. I trapped Rockdale County Georgia in the 1970s and caught many. They were among the more difficult animals to skin because the hide adheres tightly to the carcass along the back of the animal. There are two ways to skin one, rough skin and clean skin. Rough is quicker and easier as it leaves a lot of flesh on the hide. That leaves a lot of work fleshing it later though, and for that bit of work you will need a dual-handle draw knife. I liked one side dull and other side sharp.
Alternatively, clean skinning a beaver with a rounded blade sharp knife (very carefully so you don't nick the hide) will ideally leave all the flesh on the carcass, but it takes a lot more time. No need for fleshing with clean skin method.
After skinning/fleshing I tacked hides out round on big sheet of plywood to dry for a week or so in the shed, but away from mice. Beaver are the round shaped brown pelts in the center of the pic.
Also, Beaver meat is delicious, but tends to be fatty. Good fried.
Watch YouTube videos that show this stuff.
Thank you very much for the information. I am trying to learn as much as I can from my friend, he is not really into beaver though. 2 of his sons trapped them with us one year (I have been driving the family in their vehicles for over 20 years, they are Mennonite and in their sect they can't drive but they can own them) They both said it was a lot of work as well.
Quote from: wvmntnhick on October 29, 2018, 06:31:29 PM
Beavers are a pile of work with little to no payout. If they're somewhere that they're causing a problem, I'll go after them. If not, it's not worth the hassle. K9's are quick and generally pay better. If you can get enough castor saved up, that's a different story.
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It is not something I want to do a lot of, but I like this historical link to it and that is why I have the interest. One of the reasons I am not wanting to do a lot with them is the type of ground you have to cover is some of the hardest for me with my body problems, just stopped walking with a cane in the past 2 years and though my balance is MUCH better than it was it is not what it should be and I simply don't want to get hurt again. I also worry about dislocating my left knee walking in stream beds which is why I won't trap alone if I do start to go for them. I would like to try the meat, if I recall correctly the tail in particular is supposed to be very good. If I can trap one good one and get it tanned I will put it on my wall in a frame and then likely never do it again, the guy I drive doing it is mostly after coyote, so I think for the most part I will stay with those and fox. I do have a raccoon here that I want to trap and get rid of, I have seen it be a little odd at times and worry about the dogs getting in fights with it. I have to get some dog proof traps set up first though.
There is no meat in the tail - I've checked because I used to hear that too. Just gristle and a little fat. I sold them for $1. each in the1970s to Plot Hide & Fur in Griffin Ga. Plot told me someone wanted to try and make small leather objects like wallets with them. The venture apparently failed cause the following year he didn't want any.
Well thanks for saving me some time on that tail. Still would like to get just one good one.
Sir-diealot, You'll have a blast trapping and I wish you luck. Beaver are not hard to get in a trap but require a sturdy set to hold. Whoever said to clean skin them was right, they are a pain to flesh out. Fur care is very important. Get them clean and dry ASAP. There should be some videos on you tube about it. In my younger days I ran a pretty good size line. When we were first married it was our Christmas money and we bought all our furniture with fur money. My oldest daughter would help me with the hides when she was little. I used to be a fur grader on the side and graded some big auctions until the market plummeted. I actually sold all my gear several years ago and kind of miss it now. I mostly water trapped, coon, muskrat, beaver and mink, but took a few fox. We did not have a trappable coyote population then. I wish i had some gear I would give it to you.
My best tip is work on finding locations. Trap location and placement is key.
Quote from: eggshell on October 31, 2018, 11:31:26 PM
Sir-diealot, You'll have a blast trapping and I wish you luck. Beaver are not hard to get in a trap but require a sturdy set to hold. Whoever said to clean skin them was right, they are a pain to flesh out. Fur care is very important. Get them clean and dry ASAP. There should be some videos on you tube about it. In my younger days I ran a pretty good size line. When we were first married it was our Christmas money and we bought all our furniture with fur money. My oldest daughter would help me with the hides when she was little. I used to be a fur grader on the side and graded some big auctions until the market plummeted. I actually sold all my gear several years ago and kind of miss it now. I mostly water trapped, coon, muskrat, beaver and mink, but took a few fox. We did not have a trappable coyote population then. I wish i had some gear I would give it to you.
My best tip is work on finding locations. Trap location and placement is key.
That is great that you have such a family connection with it, I am pretty sure nobody in my family has trapped unless maybe it was grandparents or great grandparents. I thank you very much on the offer to give if you still had some.
The way things look because I can't get the setters to help me set the traps I am not going to do any trapping this year, it is not worth the cost for only 1 week of trapping, if even that would be left by the time I get them in. (I would be trapping with them and they will be quitting in about a week and a half because they yank everything before deer season starts and I don't have my own vehicle right now) I am enjoying driving them around as they trap and watching them do their setups and all, it is a learning experience.