Using wax to slow down drying process

[Cool Ridge Clucker]

Hi guys.  I have some fresh cut wood that I want to cut into turning blanks and some day make them into pot call strikers.  I've heard people talk about coating the end grain and a couple inches of the sides of such blanks with wax to help it dry evenly and to ward off cracking.  Does it really matter what kind of wax you use...like parafin or is there some wax based mixture that I should be using for such things?

[ol bob]

Plain ol gulf canning wax melt it in a pot and dip the ends in it and let it dry.

[Cool Ridge Clucker]

Thanks Ol' Bob.  I had read a book on wood turning recently and the author kept mentioning coating the wood grain ends of green wood with a wax emulsion, but he didn't give any further description.  So I thought maybe there was some mixture of wax and something else out there that people were using that I hadn't heard of.  I appreciate the info.

[M,Yingling]

Yes any wax will do plain candles scented doesn't matter. Can get them dirt cheap or free if Iloilo hard enough.  I use a old electric deep fryer 5 goodwill takes few minutes heat up use then just let wax harden up till next time. U said your doing blanks Iam sure u know but cut oversized for shrinkage   If I cut a realy green wet wood I'll do ends at least 1 in up  if it's a burl or crazy grain wood I'll wrap in newspaper help slow the drying for few weeks changepaper every few days

[Gunzy]

If you plan to do this often, grab a gallon of anchorseal. Otherwise use whatever you have laying around. Even old latex paint will suffice to seal the endgrain in a pinch.

[BOB_HARWELL]

Oil base paint works as good as wax.

  Bob

[Cool Ridge Clucker]

Thanks.  Its good to know there are multiple things that will work.

I am using carbide tools to turn my pots.  So far I have been practicing on some scrap pieces of poplar.  When it comes to turning the blank round, I am getting some (but not much) end grain tear out on the rounded sides.  Would you guys say that is just a normal part of turning pots that you finesse most of it out and then use sandpaper to correct the last of it or is it simply a result of using carbide tools or maybe how I am using them?

[M,Yingling]

popular is softer so u may get little tear out just takes practice and light touch as for end grain can always wet very very little to get the grain to raise sand off  and dont want heat wood up while sanding can make it warp a bit ,, for the finale outside diameter i like take very sharp parting tool and cut last 1/16 th from outside way less tear out i have a vid check it out  just light touch 

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5mJDvxE8yI

[Cool Ridge Clucker]

Thanks for that.  I watched your videos (parts 1 and 2).  You work fast!  It gave me lost of good information.  I appreciate it.  Do you use sanding sealer on your calls?  Do you apply any sort of finish to the insides?

[M,Yingling]

Thanks after u build a few it comes  but u notice one thing i always was doing taking measurements  lol 

yes i use sanding sealer on mine  then spar or lacquer on oilly woods 

[Cool Ridge Clucker]

I did notice all the measuring you did.  I am doing the same thing.  I've always been very meticulous and comfortable with things that required precision like when I reload firearm cartridges or heck...at work doing survey layout on bridges.

Does it hurt to get the sanding sealer on the wood surfaces where you plan to glue your sound board or playing surface?

[M,Yingling]

i wouldnt glue on the finish. I clean mine up with razor and some sand paper then just double check my sound board height  and make sure calling surface is siting flat,,, guess u could always tape them areas ,, but take just few minutes clean them up ,,