Burris ff3 question (taking off gun each year)

[reynolds243]

Until this year I have used a dedicated turkey gun so I never take the site off. However I now have a sbe2 I will use for all my hunting and not sure I want to put the ff back on. How off you think it would be if I took it off each year to dove and duck hunt with then out it back on come spring?

I was gonna get a burris 336 base to use and I would actually take the base off with it. I just don't want to burn a bunch of shells each spring to get it back zero. HTL ain't cheap enough for all that lol

[chatterbox]

If you end up taking the base off as well, I would think you would essentially be starting over each spring with your pattern testing, doing your close in work with dove loads, then going out to 40 with your turkey loads.
Personally, I think that ends up being too much work and cost every spring, especially like you said with the cost of HTL loads now. 

[the Ward]

I agree with Chatterbox,i would think by removing the base and sight you would be starting from square 1 each spring.I think you have a couple of options that may work.One is to use the picatinny ff2/3 mount with a low profile base like the warne 2 piece steel(just use the rear mount) and the raised comfortec comb,then remove sight and swap the comb for wingshooting leaving the  base on.This way it should return pretty close to zero.I've tried this with my vinci and bushnell trs25 and it stays close enough that it only needs a minor tweak to be dead on.It actually stays close enough to hunt with,but I like to take a couple shots anyways to check everything out.The other option is to try wingshooting with it on and see if it works for you.Might be worth a try.

[reynolds243]

I could leave the base on but I don't like looking over a base to shoot. I switch my stock to the steady grip in the spring so no dice on the raised comb insert. I do love using the sight so I'd like to keep it.

Would the speed bead require a complete resite each year?

[the Ward]

Yea your right about the base,i forgot about that.I have a champion easy hit bead on mine and it is just visible over the base.Before I put it on I was looking over the base like you described.Still not perfect but I may try a weaver multislot base as its open in the center.I don't know about the speedbead setup being removed and installed with the zero being maintained,but it might be something to check out.

[alloutdoors]

Try getting your gun sighted in with your turkey loads, then put in a light field load and shoot a target at about 15 yards (or close enough to get a nice small hole) and see where it is hitting. It doesn't matter if it is hitting high or low, left or right; you just want to know where it will hit when your setup is dialed in for your turkey loads. Now you can take off the sight, but make sure you keep a record of where the field load hit and what range you shot at. When you go to put the sight back on, use the same field load and see if it still hits in the same spot at the same range. Adjust if needed. Once the field load is hitting exactly where it was before, your turkey loads should also be back on target. I would still run a couple of turkey loads through the gun just to be sure, at least the first couple times.

I leave my sight on all the time so I haven't actually tried this method, but it should work.

[the Ward]

Now that's a good idea.Along those lines I wonder if you saved a target from sighting in previously,and use a laser boresite,then put a small reflective dot where the laser hits the target after the  sight has been zeroed in.Then when you reinstall the sight line up the laser with the reflective spot on the master target and the see if dot on sight is still on the bullseye or center of pattern.If not,keep laser dot on previously marked reflective witness mark and adjust red dot back to bullseye or center of pattern on the master target.Then you could shoot a shell or 2 to confirm and make any minor adjustments.Just throwing anther idea out there that mite work for you...ward 

[reynolds243]

great ideas guys, i was thinking of the target load idea as well. i don't mind sighting it back in each year but i really don't want to shoot 2-3 HTL loads each spring at paper.

I just don't think it would be a good function to wing shoot with so id have to remove it. I may look into the speed bead but not sure that would be any different then the Burris 336 mount.  I would assume the mount would go back on each time in the same spot just due to the fine specifics of the thread pattern and all to the base.

anyways any other ideas are welcome, i have till spring to decide if i want to keep the sight although i prob will this spring at least anyways as i have to go full through pattern testing with the SBE2 as this is the first year i have had it. 

On that note anyone got results using Magblends with a specific choke. I have a jellyhead 660 currently that came with the gun and will prob try a Sumtoy and Hevi Choke but i am very intrigued by the Rob Roberts choke.

[alloutdoors]

The boresight is a good idea if you have one. It would probably be more precise than using the target loads.

[the Ward]

I patterned the magblends with the .650 sumtoy out of my vinci and it averages right around 220 or so.It's crazy tight lol!I got that constriction when I was shooting lead,now that I joined the htl shooters I mite drop back to a .660/.665 or so to get a count in the 170-180 range to be a little more forgiving if I get the shakes lol!Haven't got any experience with the RR chokes,but I've heard good things about them.I have a kicks gt .665 I mite try out of curiosity just to see what it will do with magblends.I think something in the .660 range should work good from what I've seen posted.If you go with a Rob Roberts choke post it up and let us know what ya think about it.

[reynolds243]

I shot the 650 SumToy from my stoeger with 3" magblends and they were in the 225 range as well. It was a DEADLY combo.

[the Ward]

Amen to that brother!I remember seeing those pattern pics you posted with the stoeger/sumtoy combo,they were awesome!     

[mudhen]

Bore sight trick work for me.  You can make copies of the target, note where the POI is, and use that sheet to re-sight in the next year.

I do this when I travel with guns...

mudhen

[Tom Dooley]

I do not have this type sight but I am thinking about getting one. My question is why not use the Burris FF for ducks and doves? Someone told me that they could be used for wing shooting.

[reynolds243]

I am gonna try and see if I like it but acquiring the target may be an issue and I'm not sure how long the battery will work if left on for hours duck hunting.

I am leaning toward the speed bead mount at the moment and using a bore siight to mark it after spring