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How would you approach patterning and sighting in today?

Started by sugarray, April 07, 2011, 03:33:03 PM

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Would you shoot or adjust the FF II back to where bead aim first?

Just shoot
7 (70%)
Adjust back to where bead POA is
3 (30%)

Total Members Voted: 8

Voting closed: April 08, 2011, 03:33:03 PM

sugarray

Going to shoot the 20 gauge loads and get it lined in.  I have a Hastings .562 and a Rem SF .570.  Going to shoot the SF first and if I am happy, then align.

From aligning with the Fed HW I know the POI with the FF II is significantly different than the bead.  So, would you just shoot, or adjust the FF II back to POA with the bead first?

Going in 1 hour, so ASAP


pullit

I would see what patterns best, then adjust.
I don't care where it hits, that is why sights are adjustable.....

sugarray

Yeah, but I don't want to miss, I don't think the different shell will be that much off, but you never know


Reloader

You're spinning your wheels adjusting anything until you find the choke and load that gives the patterns you want.  If you have it sighted in with cheap lead loads at 20yds, it's hard to miss a 3'x3' paper at 40 with any choke and load combo.  Yes, some will be off quite a ways, but you'll catch the pattern and be able to get your 10s and 20s to know what works best.

Belo83

sort of on topic. i just picked up my 835 yesterday and my muellers in the mail. does it make sense to buy any cheap ammo to do some basic sighting in? i plan on hunting with hevi #7's but at the price per box, i wince at the thought of sighting the gun in with it.

i will admit that this is my first time ever patterning a gun, i've only sighted in shotguns and rifle scopes in the past and in doing that have used the same ammo i plan on hunting with (also expensive when using lightfield sabot slugs for the 12 gauge) but i wanted to ask first when it comes to shot.

how many rounds should i expect to get her sighted in for the mueller?

thanks.

busta biggun

I use old duck and pheasant loads to get the scope sighted in at around 10 yards. I pick a golfball size target and shoot. It should make the target disappear. Then once I am sure I am dead on at 10 yards, I put in my expensive shells and check my patterns at 20yds, then 30yds, and finally 40. If I am really happy I will try a 5o yard pattern just to see what it looks like, but I hardly EVER take a shot at over 35 yards. Anyway, that's how I save money on shells. You only use 3-4 expensive shells. If you want to try different shells and compare, then just do the 30 and 40 yard targets after you're sighted in.

VAHUNTER

Quote from: Reloader on April 07, 2011, 04:16:54 PM
You're spinning your wheels adjusting anything until you find the choke and load that gives the patterns you want.  If you have it sighted in with cheap lead loads at 20yds, it's hard to miss a 3'x3' paper at 40 with any choke and load combo.  Yes, some will be off quite a ways, but you'll catch the pattern and be able to get your 10s and 20s to know what works best.
agreed
Good things come to those who wait

mossy835

I have done it many ways but this year I bought a laser bore sight that goes in the end of the barrel and is adjustable from 22 caliber to 10 gauge bores. I set the gun up steady and align my Mueller with the laser dot on a tree (back yard) and then will shoot it at paper to check POA versus POI. For the $50 plus dollars it cost I feel it is cheap compared to ammo. On a rifle it is the only way to go as it gets you in the black and from there it is minute adjustments to point blank range adjustments. Good luck. Mike
:z-guntootsmiley:

bird

Myself I don't care how many shells it takes.  I always adjust my sights so that POA and POI are dead on and then I fire my shells to see what my pellet count is for my pattern.  This is the way I have always done it and will do it like this forever.  It may be more time consuming but there is no doubting the numbers in the end.

bird