Here is a detailed way to d/t for a do it yourself guy that I found...
I had gone online looking for ways to d/t my 870. I had found the video from
870.com and it was good, but added to what he did. One of the most difficult things to do was to get the center line in top of the receiver.
Clamping the receiver onto a vice makes life much easier, I have jaw pads that are very helpful.
I measured the receiver with a caliper then divided that by half. I set my caliper to that measurement and locked it in with the thumb lock screw.
I then clamped a small flat piece of sheet metal to the receiver, making sure it extended above the top of the receiver.
Using the upper jaws for taking inside measurements I placed one end against the piece of metal and the other side on top of the receiver and marked it. I did this in a few spots on top of the receiver. I then removed the sheet metal and clamped it on the other side of the receiver and confirmed the caliper fell on the same spots on top of the receiver.
As long as the spots fell on the same location, I made a line through them. I then clamped on my scope base and used it as a template, making sure the line on top of the receiver went perfectly thru middle of the holes in the scope base. I traced the holes with a fine pencil. The first hole, measuring from the front end of the receiver should be at .647 inches. (Or at least close to that, whatever you prefer)
With the receiver still in the vice, I used a center punch to help with drilling. Just use the weight of the hammer head. You dont have to hit it hard, I was surprised at how little effort was needed to make an indentation. You can always strike it again.
I then put the receiver in the press vice, lining up the first hole and drilling it with a #31 carbide bit. I used 3in 1 oil for lubrication. You only need a drop or two and it was surprisingly easy to cut through the receiver. Just put enough steady pressure on the hand wheel and allow the bit to do the work. Repeat with the other holes.
After drilling the holes, I then put the # 6-48 plug tap into the drill press. I used the chuck/spindle to tap the holes. Leaving it in the press because it will be lined up perfectly with little chance for tapping it crooked. Unplug the press for safety.
As with the drilling, I held the hand wheel only providing very little but steady pressure and then twisted the chuck manually. One full turn, then keeping the same light pressure, backing out half a turn. Then with the same downward light pressure, twisting and threading more turns, Mabel two or three revolutions and again backing out a revolution, continuing until it is done. You will actually be able to notice the slight movement of the hand wheel. You have to be patient and finesse it a bit, and will be surprised at how easy it is. Repeat the steps until the tap is through the receiver. Once it is through the receiver, slowly back twist the chuck. Again, you will see the hand wheel move slightly. Keep light pressure on the hand wheel until the tap is completely free from the receiver. DO NOT just let go of the hand wheel, it will strip the hole.
I would experiment on a piece of 1/8 bar stock first.
Here are the links for what I bought. Everything worked great. Any more question, feel free to write.
Good luck
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAFD5DY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_1XwzCb6ZVC6DMhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M11WTMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_vYwzCbYBDDY5SQuote from: runngun on April 30, 2023, 02:02:50 AM
If you have a drill, get some taps, on the tap package it will tell you what drill bit you need. This only takes 15 minutes, do it yourself. I learned to do this after a local Gunsmith was charging $25 per hole, he went to $40 per hole. Negative Ghostrider!!!! I have done a bunch of guns since then.
Note**** I also recommend buying a "sc=ew checker" from Brownell's, to make sure that you are using the right bit/tap for the screws that you are going to use.
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