for your flints I would get the grey English flints, call Dixons muzzleloading shop in Kempton Pa or track of the wolf for what size
you'll need a vent pic to clean touch hole, a "straightened "paper clip work good.
" " " " something to Knapp the flint to resharpen it, I use a 12 penny nail with point filed off to go against the flint, the handle on a short starter works as a hammer to tap on the nail.
another difference is the powder, pyrodex and the substitutes don't perform well in a flintlock.
for guns with a bigger lock like yours I use 3f in the pan instead of 4f, 3f in the pan will be faster on damp days.
if the gun is cyl bore and not screw in chokes you going to be limited to about 30yds for head/neck shots , and that will take a lot of experimenting & patterning to get to 30yds, some open guns can get a little farther.
usually less powder and more shot will get a tighter pattern in a open choke gun, I would start with about 30 grains more of hard antimony #6 shot than whatever powder charge you start with for tighter center core patterns.
*** THIS is for VOLUMNE measure and not a weighed shot and powder charge. chilled shot is not the best for tight patterns.
The age old standard of "equal shot for equal powder" by volume will probably not get you the best center core patterns
if you google "tight center core patterns in a muzzleloader" you will get all the info you need for what wads and other ideas . a lot of what you'll read is for tight patterns for squirrels, but it applies to turkeys
also google "Skychief wad sequence" this is a reverse wad sequence from what is considered normal.
It will only tighten patterns in an open choke gun. I tried this in an old Black powder sxs and it did work in the open choke barrel, did not work in the barrel with choke. Which the guy points out, and he was right.
my best turkey patterns were with using oxyoke or comparable thin wool felt wads as an overshot wad. Noticeably better patterns better than the thin (cereal box thin) over shot card patterns.
