I got a 870 express I am wanting to paint. Any tips on how to do a good job. It is a wooden stock gun.
If I can remember Ill look for the pics of the last time I did my gun. Start out with it CLEAN. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol or similar. I used etching primer first and gave it two real good even coats then a base coat of that tan color and then used a hand full of weeds from the yard as a stencil of sorts and hit it with green and brown...........Ill try to find pics so it makes more since
Never mind. I found where I got the idea. http://www.duckhuntingchat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36000
My end results are like the pics except for the grass and reeds
Thanks for the link. That gun turned out nice. I've seen the same thing done on duck boats with vacuum hose and dowl rods.
Clean it well with acetone to get rid of most oils. Some guys will even put the metal parts in the oven a while to help evaporate any residual oil but it's not necessary. If the stock has a gloss finish u may want to remove that so the paint adheres better. Then let the paint fly.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
http://oldgobbler.com/Forum/index.php/topic,70760.0.html
This one turned out nice
I've hand painted several guns. You can make it as simple or as complex as you want. My current gun started life as a Remington 870 Youth 20ga. I stripped the gun completely down, taped up the parts I didn't want paint in/on, sanded, cleaned, primed, resanded, primed, painted, and coated with two coats of clear. When I tapped off the areas I didn't want paint, I taped in coat hangers so I could handle/hold the parts while painting and hang to dry when finished. The main thing is to make sure all oil is off the gun and dry then lay down a good layer of primer for the paint to stick to. My paint job has held up as well or better than any dip jobs I've had done on guns going on 7 years now.
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0595-1.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0596.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0597.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0598.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0600.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0599.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0601.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0602.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0603.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/sandegr/870%2020ga/IMG_0604.jpg)
Cool paint job, Sand Man! Back when I was painting turkey guns with flat primer, they never looked anywhere near as professional looking that.
Quote from: Strutr on March 17, 2017, 11:14:10 AM
Cool paint job, Sand Man! Back when I was painting turkey guns with flat primer, they never looked anywhere near as professional looking that.
Thanks. Oddly enough that was the 1st gun I hand painted. I used rattle can paint I had lying around my shop. It did take me 10s if not over 100 hours. I've learned as I've gone. I don't get near as complex with the others as I did that one. Less is more!
that gun looks awesome!!!
I did a video on mine 2 years ago and the paint still looks just as good today. Video covers the entire process.
http://youtu.be/VDUxdeLPWNE
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/e0866f279af269fb07ca7cb0bdf42ff9.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Me thinks that the guns with a light base coat vs a dark base looks better.
Go to the DIY section. There's a good post there I initially followed. Was really happy with my predator paint job using tan base coat and made decals out of painters tape and wax paper as seen on YouTube for the browns blacks and greens. I found the rustoleum camo flat was much better than the krylon. Also the krylon matte clear was not that good. Get the Valspar brand it's awesome but let the paint dry a couple days before clear coating or it gets foggy. Just like most things, the work is mostly prepping. Use the bircheood Casey degreaser and scrub a few times. Make sure to wear gloves to keep oil off barrel. I then used alcohol on the gun before priming it. After that it's all fun. Good luck(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170319/64816769a41f80f9f9aa70996aecabe0.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
(http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz192/xbox360777twc/Mobile%20Uploads/20170312_173715_zpss7qdipd6.jpg) (http://s827.photobucket.com/user/xbox360777twc/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170312_173715_zpss7qdipd6.jpg.html)
(http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz192/xbox360777twc/Mobile%20Uploads/20170312_173757_zpssoyckxvp.jpg) (http://s827.photobucket.com/user/xbox360777twc/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170312_173757_zpssoyckxvp.jpg.html) ive been using the hunters speciality vinyl tape. Cost about 5-7 bucks and only takes a few hours to do a good job. I used a blow dryer to mold the tape around corners and used an exacto knife to trim around the checkering, corners, receiver, etc.
Quote from: Gooserbat on March 18, 2017, 12:25:50 AM
Me thinks that the guns with a light base coat vs a dark base looks better.
I agree. :agreed:
Also I like the spray paint / sponge technique the best.
Sweet looking turkey rig. :icon_thumright:
I have a OLD J.C. Higgins bolt-action 16 gauge that I bought a few years back for around 80 bucks. I had to make a new trigger guard as it had none. It is chambered Full and I patterned it last April. Great dense patterns using #4s.
Just last month- I bought HUNTER GREEN indoor-outdoor paint that will work on wood and metal and painted that 16 gauge . Came out great!!! I did put 2 white-oak leaves on each side of the stock and I now have 2 brown leave shapes on each side. Cant wait to take this 16 gauge bolt-action out on April 24th in New Jersey. It also weighs just 8lbs and has one of those old flat safetys that you pull back towards you to be able to shoot. I just hope that I can find copper-coated 16 gauge shells.