Last month I picked up a "broken" browning gold 3.5 as a project gun. I took it completely apart, peeled off the previous waterfowl graphics kit, cleaned it like it had never been cleaned before, and it appears to work perfectly. I added a new mossy oak graphics kit in bottomland, and some truglo magnum pro series sights. She's got a Bansner truglo tube in her, and I picked up some 3.5 inch #6 longbeards to run through her. All I need now is some decent weather to pattern!
After cleaning, before the bottomland:
(http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq164/borden811/image_zps60aa0106.jpg) (http://s444.photobucket.com/user/borden811/media/image_zps60aa0106.jpg.html)
After the bottomland:
(http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq164/borden811/image_zps34f39f30.jpg) (http://s444.photobucket.com/user/borden811/media/image_zps34f39f30.jpg.html)
(http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq164/borden811/image_zps56b155c6.jpg) (http://s444.photobucket.com/user/borden811/media/image_zps56b155c6.jpg.html)
Came out great! After seeing this and O.G.s' post with his sp10 has got me itching to try one.
His looks fantastic as well. The only thing we did different was the rib. I left mine black, and just ran the camo up to where the rib and barrel meet. He camod his rib as well, and it looks better than mine. For 25 bucks, and a couple hours worth of time, I can't really complain though.
Definitely can't beat it for the price .And the results speak for themselves! I have a newly acquired bps 10 that I've been messing with and I have been contemplating painting or dipping it.The finish is actually pretty good on most of the gun, just slight wear on the sharp edges of the receiver and faded synthetic stocks. I like this option the best so far though, thanks for sharing the info and pix!
That turned out great!! Easy?
Denny
I thought it was pretty easy. It's adhesive backed, but you can move it around a lot until you get it positioned just right. Then just press it on firmly keeping an eye out for air bubbles. Hit it with a heat gun around the spots where you need it to conform to the curves, and trim off the excess. Then you just need to trim around the loading/ejection ports, trigger group retention pins, sling stud holes, etc. A very sharp exacto knife is key for making clean cuts, but a razor blade would probably work also. Then when I was all finished I went over the whole gun with the heat gun and pressed it all down again, just to ensure a good bond with the adhesive.
LOOKS GREAT to me!!! :icon_thumright: :icon_thumright:
That looks really good!
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I appreciate you posting this. This is definitely the route I am going. Same Bottomland camo and everything. Looks awesome.
Looks Great
love it :icon_thumright:
That turned out great! Looks Good!
How durable is this stuff supposed to be and does anyone have a link for it? Been wanting to get my gun dipped in bottomland but this may not be a bad option.
Nice job. Looks great...
It seems very durable. Has a 5 year warranty. Just google mossy oak graphics kit. You'll get all the info you need.
that looks awesome!
Got one ordered yesterday.Found them on Amazon for $22.66. If mine turns out half as good as yours did I will be estatic! I was wondering how you did the seams?
Nice job. That really looks good. Just ordered a set off of Amazon as well that should be here tomorrow. Can't wait to try it out.
The barrel and the forearm don't have a seam, as one piece was big enough to cover each of them. When I did the seam on the stock and receiver, just overlapped the pieces, and heated the top piece with the heat gun. This makes it soft and stretchy. I then just stretched the material a little, and pressed it down. When I stretched it, I stretched it more in some places than others, so the seam didn't have a strait edge. They blended in really well.
Thank you for the tip!