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What type of finish?

Started by Footballer, March 25, 2018, 10:57:49 AM

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Footballer

Lots of variations out there from what I've read. I like the looks of oil finishes as I'm not a fan of glossy calls.

What type of finish do you use and how do you apply it?


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ol bob

Different woods require different finishes one size don't fit all.

mastevt

PolyAcrylic from MinWax.
   Comes in different finishes, flat to glossy.  Water base.  Very durable and clean up is a breeze with hot water.  Can be used on oily woods to stabilized woods and everything in between.  I use a
micro touch up spray gun. 

MickT

I use rattle can laquer in a flat finish when I piddle with mine. I'm just doing domestic hardwoods, no greasy exotics.


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Footballer

Quote from: mastevt on March 26, 2018, 06:59:30 AM
PolyAcrylic from MinWax.
   Comes in different finishes, flat to glossy.  Water base.  Very durable and clean up is a breeze with hot water.  Can be used on oily woods to stabilized woods and everything in between.  I use a
micro touch up spray gun.

How many coats do you use? Do you spray the inside and the shelves the surface and soundboard are glued to?


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Flydown Custom Calls

A lot of good finishes out there. Durability is key. I primarily use tru oil because it's very forgiving when applying (not a lot of running or sagging) and it's really durable. I use about 5-7 coats for a glossy finish but 3 costs with give you a less glossy finish and still protect the wood. Some other options are spray shellac, matte spray spar urethane. The spray shellac with a top coat of matte minwax polyacrylic would probably be a great durable flat finish. The spray shellac will help to enhance the wood grain. I always finish the entire call (inside, outside, and holes). Any moisture absorbed can deaden the call. There was a post about finishes recently on here. I attatched 2 links. Hope this helps.

Josh


http://oldgobbler.com/Forum/index.php/topic,74258.0.html

http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php?topic=8212.0

Footballer

Quote from: Flydown Custom Calls on March 26, 2018, 07:37:32 PM
A lot of good finishes out there. Durability is key. I primarily use tru oil because it's very forgiving when applying (not a lot of running or sagging) and it's really durable. I use about 5-7 coats for a glossy finish but 3 costs with give you a less glossy finish and still protect the wood. Some other options are spray shellac, matte spray spar urethane. The spray shellac with a top coat of matte minwax polyacrylic would probably be a great durable flat finish. The spray shellac will help to enhance the wood grain. I always finish the entire call (inside, outside, and holes). Any moisture absorbed can deaden the call. There was a post about finishes recently on here. I attatched 2 links. Hope this helps.

Josh


http://oldgobbler.com/Forum/index.php/topic,74258.0.html

http://thogamecallsforums.com/index.php?topic=8212.0

Great information, I really appreciate it!


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killitngrillit

When applying the finish do you apply it to the surfaces where the sound board and striking surface will be glued or try to keep those bare wood?

southern_leo

Quote from: killitngrillit on April 10, 2018, 10:33:10 AM
When applying the finish do you apply it to the surfaces where the sound board and striking surface will be glued or try to keep those bare wood?
Depending on your method you may not be able to avoid it (ie spray finishes). But brushed on finishes try to avoid it. Either way you need to take some sandpaper after and take off any finish on the ledges. You want your soundboard and surface  to glue directly to wood with nothing between.

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killitngrillit

Thanks for the tip!  One more question, how do you write on your calls? Fine sharpie after sanding but before first coat of tru oil? Or do you put down one coat first then pen (scared the ink will get blotchy on straight wood)?  Sharpie or some other kind of pen?  I've sanded a couple to 400 and was going to try tru oil next.  I don't want a glass finish which is why I stopped at 400, rather still have a little texture to it. (poplar and walnut)

mastevt

Quote from: killitngrillit on April 11, 2018, 09:37:37 AM
Thanks for the tip!  One more question, how do you write on your calls? Fine sharpie after sanding but before first coat of tru oil? Or do you put down one coat first then pen (scared the ink will get blotchy on straight wood)?  Sharpie or some other kind of pen?  I've sanded a couple to 400 and was going to try tru oil next.  I don't want a glass finish which is why I stopped at 400, rather still have a little texture to it. (poplar and walnut)

This is what I use under Poly acrylic. I works under other finish as well, but I'd test it on something else first.

Mad_Baron

I like Danish or Reak oil depending on the wood.  I started using some water based Poly Acrylic and am impressed with it.  Just sand or steel wool between coats, 3 coats total.  Buff if you want.  Smooth finish.
John Haines

Mad Baron Calls
NWTF Chapter President
NWTF Indiana State Board Member

pauld

Whatever you use I suggest wiping with acetone first, especially with oily woods. Avoid anything water based. The problem with many lacquer and poly finishes is anything with DEET in them will take the finish off. A oil, wax/oil or CA finish will be the most durable. Be conscious that changing finishes WILL change the sound as well. Personally I use CA and "secret sauce" that Mr Harold Fowler taught me. Holds up very well.

Sir-diealot

Quote from: pauld on July 19, 2018, 11:20:45 AM
Whatever you use I suggest wiping with acetone first, especially with oily woods. Avoid anything water based. The problem with many lacquer and poly finishes is anything with DEET in them will take the finish off. A oil, wax/oil or CA finish will be the most durable. Be conscious that changing finishes WILL change the sound as well. Personally I use CA and "secret sauce" that Mr Harold Fowler taught me. Holds up very well.
Will using a bug spray with high concentration of DEET while hunting cause a problem?
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pauld

Quote from: Sir-diealot on July 19, 2018, 11:48:41 AM
Quote from: pauld on July 19, 2018, 11:20:45 AM
Whatever you use I suggest wiping with acetone first, especially with oily woods. Avoid anything water based. The problem with many lacquer and poly finishes is anything with DEET in them will take the finish off. A oil, wax/oil or CA finish will be the most durable. Be conscious that changing finishes WILL change the sound as well. Personally I use CA and "secret sauce" that Mr Harold Fowler taught me. Holds up very well.
Will using a bug spray with high concentration of DEET while hunting cause a problem?

DEET has a nasty habit of stripping or causing a white cloudy look on lacquer and poly.