New bow and looking for some advise

[Brian811]

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If you're going to shoot the Magnus Bullheads, I highly recommend using the arrows made for them also. You can practice with them by shooting them into a cheap pillow hanging from a stand or branch.

[Sir-diealot]

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If you're going to shoot the Magnus Bullheads, I highly recommend using the arrows made for them also. You can practice with them by shooting them into a cheap pillow hanging from a stand or branch.

I have them ordered, have to go pick them up. Thank you much.

[Kevin6Q]

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Magnus Bullheads are great. The company also replaced blade free of charge and you will break them. The arrows have the Ethics Archery swivels to allow the heads to spin separately from the arrow and this makes tuning simpler. Great combo.

[Sir-diealot]

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Magnus Bullheads are great. The company also replaced blade free of charge and you will break them. The arrows have the Ethics Archery swivels to allow the heads to spin separately from the arrow and this makes tuning simpler. Great combo.

Thank you for the information.

[Turkeybutt]

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I would use the Rage Extreme and body shoot them as you don't want a pass-through.
Paper tune your arrow to see how it fly's and get everything set up and tuned.

Toss the string tracker you have in the trash too many headaches and too many problems. I think that model came out 40 years ago and wasn't to effective then!
If you are concerned about finding your arrow in the dirt or in a turkey that may have run a little too far I would use lumenoks.
What type of release are you using?

[Sir-diealot]

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I would use the Rage Extreme and body shoot them as you don't want a pass-through.
Paper tune your arrow to see how it fly's and get everything set up and tuned.

Toss the string tracker you have in the trash too many headaches and too many problems. I think that model came out 40 years ago and wasn't to effective then!
If you are concerned about finding your arrow in the dirt or in a turkey that may have run a little too far I would use lumenoks.
What type of release are you using?

I use a Winn Free Flight C-10 Release aid that clicks to the string, I know you will say to use a loop but I can't get the thing in the loop because of eye problems, I end up everywhere but with the release in the loop. I have some Magnus Bullheads arrows and heads now. I am going to bow hunt them this year now though, I am having some issues with my body. I thank you for taking the time to reply though.

[Turkeybutt]

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I understand about eye sight issues and a loop isn't for everybody. It gives you a more consistent release but we work with what we know or are comfortable with.
Your release is good, yes there are better but most certainly no need to go out and buy a Stanislawski for 200 to 300 dollars!
Let me know when you get your knees done and how you are making out.
What length arrows are you shooting and spine?

[Sir-diealot]

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I understand about eye sight issues and a loop isn't for everybody. It gives you a more consistent release but we work with what we know or are comfortable with.
Your release is good, yes there are better but most certainly no need to go out and buy a Stanislawski for 200 to 300 dollars!
Let me know when you get your knees done and how you are making out.
What length arrows are you shooting and spine?

I have some Easton Axis arrows that are 340gr. that I had with my old bow, I talked with the guy at the bow shop I got the new one from and he said that they would be fine to use which to be honest surprised me as I dropped from shooting 70# then down to 63# with the old bow and am now shooting 45-50#. with the new bow. Both at 29" I also have some PSE arrows that are 300gr. I am using 125 fix blade broadhead (for deer) and 4" or 5" Quick Spin vanes set in a straight helical.

You are absolutely right, the look does allow for a better release but I just can't consistently get the release into it. When I shoot my current release I set my middle finger against the bottom nock and that helps me guide the clip to the string. If I did not have to use distance glasses to see to shoot I would not have  a problem getting it on the loop.

Oh I have added a HHA sight and rest since this picture was taken.

[Turkeybutt]

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I am looking at the big picture here since you mentioned you will use this bow for deer as well.  Grant it you won’t be taking 30 or 40 yard shots at a turkey but you will for a deer depending on you skill set. So why not get the proper arrow to use for both applications.                         
In general, an under-spined arrow will stray to the right, while an arrow that is too stiff will veer to the left.   
The following information is based on an IBO speed of less the 315 FPS. The 300 spine arrows are too light and a 340 would work if your draw length was 31 -32” I would check out a 400 spine arrow. This is based on a shooting a 125 grain Magnus Bullhead.
Adding weight up front can significantly change the dynamic spine of the arrow. For every 25 grains of weight added to the front, it weakens the dynamic spine by approximately 2 ½ lbs.   
Remember metal inserts – usually made of brass or aluminum will add overall weight and increase the weight/forward balance of the shaft. These inserts typically weigh between 50 and 75 grains.
 I believed you mentioned you had to take your bow to the shop so shoot a 340 spine arrow vs a 400 while there.
 The HHA sight and rest is a good addition and will serve you well.
I hope this information came in handy. I hope to see a photo of your bow killed turkey. Good luck to you in all your endeavors!

[Sir-diealot]

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I am looking at the big picture here since you mentioned you will use this bow for deer as well.  Grant it you won’t be taking 30 or 40 yard shots at a turkey but you will for a deer depending on you skill set. So why not get the proper arrow to use for both applications.                         
In general, an under-spined arrow will stray to the right, while an arrow that is too stiff will veer to the left.   
The following information is based on an IBO speed of less the 315 FPS. The 300 spine arrows are too light and a 340 would work if your draw length was 31 -32” I would check out a 400 spine arrow. This is based on a shooting a 125 grain Magnus Bullhead.
Adding weight up front can significantly change the dynamic spine of the arrow. For every 25 grains of weight added to the front, it weakens the dynamic spine by approximately 2 ½ lbs.   
Remember metal inserts – usually made of brass or aluminum will add overall weight and increase the weight/forward balance of the shaft. These inserts typically weigh between 50 and 75 grains.
 I believed you mentioned you had to take your bow to the shop so shoot a 340 spine arrow vs a 400 while there.
 The HHA sight and rest is a good addition and will serve you well.
I hope this information came in handy. I hope to see a photo of your bow killed turkey. Good luck to you in all your endeavors!

Thank you very much for the information. I will speak with the owner of the shop for sure. My broad head is also 125gr. by the way.