Turkey hunting forum for turkey hunting tips
Turkey Calls => Call Making => Topic started by: Sir-diealot on January 07, 2020, 10:34:09 PM
-
So what is involved in making one? Do I just drill a hole in the cob and stick a wooden dowel in it with some glue? If so what kind of glue? Should I put anything like polyurethane on the cob itself so it does not break down? Thanks for the help.
-
I saw a you-Tube video on this once. Never done it myself.
-
I saw a you-Tube video on this once. Never done it myself.
I will look into it, thanks.
-
So what is involved in making one? Do I just drill a hole in the cob and stick a wooden dowel in it with some glue? If so what kind of glue? Should I put anything like polyurethane on the cob itself so it does not break down? Thanks for the help.
pretty much 5/16 drill bit me i use ca glue gel works good ,,, i have done a few in past and dipped them in polyurethane put little weight to them or spray them just for light coat ,,, seems most use them for soft calling so they like them light weight ,,would say u want the heads any where from 3 1/2in to 4in long ,,, i know brookside use sell them pre drilled not sure if they do any longer
-
So what is involved in making one? Do I just drill a hole in the cob and stick a wooden dowel in it with some glue? If so what kind of glue? Should I put anything like polyurethane on the cob itself so it does not break down? Thanks for the help.
pretty much 5/16 drill bit me i use ca glue gel works good ,,, i have done a few in past and dipped them in polyurethane put little weight to them or spray them just for light coat ,,, seems most use them for soft calling so they like them light weight ,,would say u want the heads any where from 3 1/2in to 4in long ,,, i know brookside use sell them pre drilled not sure if they do any longer
Thanks for the information Mike, appreciate it.
-
So what is involved in making one? Do I just drill a hole in the cob and stick a wooden dowel in it with some glue? If so what kind of glue? Should I put anything like polyurethane on the cob itself so it does not break down? Thanks for the help.
pretty much 5/16 drill bit me i use ca glue gel works good ,,, i have done a few in past and dipped them in polyurethane put little weight to them or spray them just for light coat ,,, seems most use them for soft calling so they like them light weight ,,would say u want the heads any where from 3 1/2in to 4in long ,,, i know brookside use sell them pre drilled not sure if they do any longer
Agreed, most corncobs I've used were very light and needed some weight added to them. I recently finished one with CA glue and it added enough weight to it where it sounded nice.
-
So what is involved in making one? Do I just drill a hole in the cob and stick a wooden dowel in it with some glue? If so what kind of glue? Should I put anything like polyurethane on the cob itself so it does not break down? Thanks for the help.
pretty much 5/16 drill bit me i use ca glue gel works good ,,, i have done a few in past and dipped them in polyurethane put little weight to them or spray them just for light coat ,,, seems most use them for soft calling so they like them light weight ,,would say u want the heads any where from 3 1/2in to 4in long ,,, i know brookside use sell them pre drilled not sure if they do any longer
Agreed, most corncobs I've used were very light and needed some weight added to them. I recently finished one with CA glue and it added enough weight to it where it sounded nice.
Thanks Jrk
-
I’ve been stabilizing a lot of the corn cobs for other call builders. It adds the weight needed and also drills better for the stem. Can also add some color if they want it. Give the cob a better look and feel on the finish strikers
-
I've made a bunch over the years and just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand. My favorite is to use two different woods ie. cedar, walnut, apple, pecan, hickory, maple, dogwood, sassafras, black locust, osage etc. and make a double striker w/ a soft wood on one end and a hard wood on the other. Cut the woods to where they will butt up in the center of the cob and cement w/ J B Weld and finish the ends by wetting and smoothing the J B Weld around the wood. Make the wood striker inserts intentionally long so that you can trim them, round the ends, and shorten as necessary to tune the striker. The two different woods striker allows you to make a variety of sounds by simply rotating the striker
-
I've made a bunch over the years and just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand. My favorite is to use two different woods ie. cedar, walnut, apple, pecan, hickory, maple, dogwood, sassafras, black locust, osage etc. and make a double striker w/ a soft wood on one end and a hard wood on the other. Cut the woods to where they will butt up in the center of the cob and cement w/ J B Weld and finish the ends by wetting and smoothing the J B Weld around the wood. Make the wood striker inserts intentionally long so that you can trim them, round the ends, and shorten as necessary to tune the striker. The two different woods striker allows you to make a variety of sounds by simply rotating the striker
Okay I am going to feel stupid asking but what do you mean by "just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand." Thanks for letting me know what to use to glue them in, I was unsure of that part.
-
I've made a bunch over the years and just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand. My favorite is to use two different woods ie. cedar, walnut, apple, pecan, hickory, maple, dogwood, sassafras, black locust, osage etc. and make a double striker w/ a soft wood on one end and a hard wood on the other. Cut the woods to where they will butt up in the center of the cob and cement w/ J B Weld and finish the ends by wetting and smoothing the J B Weld around the wood. Make the wood striker inserts intentionally long so that you can trim them, round the ends, and shorten as necessary to tune the striker. The two different woods striker allows you to make a variety of sounds by simply rotating the striker
Okay I am going to feel stupid asking but what do you mean by "just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand." Thanks for letting me know what to use to glue them in, I was unsure of that part.
A rasp is a type of metal file
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
-
I've made a bunch over the years and just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand. My favorite is to use two different woods ie. cedar, walnut, apple, pecan, hickory, maple, dogwood, sassafras, black locust, osage etc. and make a double striker w/ a soft wood on one end and a hard wood on the other. Cut the woods to where they will butt up in the center of the cob and cement w/ J B Weld and finish the ends by wetting and smoothing the J B Weld around the wood. Make the wood striker inserts intentionally long so that you can trim them, round the ends, and shorten as necessary to tune the striker. The two different woods striker allows you to make a variety of sounds by simply rotating the striker
Okay I am going to feel stupid asking but what do you mean by "just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand." Thanks for letting me know what to use to glue them in, I was unsure of that part.
A rasp is a type of metal file
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Thank you, had never heard of that before. Is it something I could order on Amazon? I have to order some stuff to finish off my wingbone from them next month anyway.
-
Any hardware store will carry a rasp.
-
I've made a bunch over the years and just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand. My favorite is to use two different woods ie. cedar, walnut, apple, pecan, hickory, maple, dogwood, sassafras, black locust, osage etc. and make a double striker w/ a soft wood on one end and a hard wood on the other. Cut the woods to where they will butt up in the center of the cob and cement w/ J B Weld and finish the ends by wetting and smoothing the J B Weld around the wood. Make the wood striker inserts intentionally long so that you can trim them, round the ends, and shorten as necessary to tune the striker. The two different woods striker allows you to make a variety of sounds by simply rotating the striker
Okay I am going to feel stupid asking but what do you mean by "just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand." Thanks for letting me know what to use to glue them in, I was unsure of that part.
A rasp is a type of metal file
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Thank you, had never heard of that before. Is it something I could order on Amazon? I have to order some stuff to finish off my wingbone from them next month anyway.
Ask one of the Amish for a wore out horseshoeing rasp, after it is too dull for hoofs it will still be sharp enough for wood or corn cobs. They have a course side and a smoother side.
a rasp will probably be too course to use on a wing-bone.
-
Any hardware store will carry a rasp.
Sorry, I missed you comment until now. I ended up buying these to work on my wingbone call as well as the strikers. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RWV4P9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've made a bunch over the years and just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand. My favorite is to use two different woods ie. cedar, walnut, apple, pecan, hickory, maple, dogwood, sassafras, black locust, osage etc. and make a double striker w/ a soft wood on one end and a hard wood on the other. Cut the woods to where they will butt up in the center of the cob and cement w/ J B Weld and finish the ends by wetting and smoothing the J B Weld around the wood. Make the wood striker inserts intentionally long so that you can trim them, round the ends, and shorten as necessary to tune the striker. The two different woods striker allows you to make a variety of sounds by simply rotating the striker
Okay I am going to feel stupid asking but what do you mean by "just use a light rasp on the cob then lightly sand." Thanks for letting me know what to use to glue them in, I was unsure of that part.
A rasp is a type of metal file
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Thank you, had never heard of that before. Is it something I could order on Amazon? I have to order some stuff to finish off my wingbone from them next month anyway.
Ask one of the Amish for a wore out horseshoeing rasp, after it is too dull for hoofs it will still be sharp enough for wood or corn cobs. They have a course side and a smoother side.
a rasp will probably be too course to use on a wing-bone.
I wound up buying these to work on my wingbone call as well as the strikers, I think they should work? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RWV4P9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-
I was wondering how your wingbone is coming along. Well, I hope.
-
I was wondering how your wingbone is coming along. Well, I hope.
Slow, waiting for the files to come in to file out the insides some and some epoxy as well. Finally got the 40% peroxide in as well as a coping saw last week and I am waiting for the other stuff. I think I need to boil in longer in some Dawn and 30 mule Borax. It will be done in time for turkey season. It will not be painted this year like I want but I want to use it this year anyway. Thank you for asking.
-
Those should be fine for the wingbone and will probably work for the corn cob.
I would still ask one of your amish friends if they could get you an old horseshoeing rasp
-
Those should be fine for the wingbone and will probably work for the corn cob.
I would still ask one of your amish friends if they could get you an old horseshoeing rasp
I will ask him when I go coyote hunting with him this weekend. Thank you.