Turkey hunting forum for turkey hunting tips
Turkey Hunting Tips => Turkey Bowhunting /Bowhunting Forum => Topic started by: Sir-diealot on September 13, 2020, 02:33:29 PM
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So yesterday I took in my old PSE Carrera which was a 70lb. draw weight bow and traded it in for one that will shoot between 45-55lbs. (A PSE Stinger) I have it set at 45lbs. now, to many shoulder surgeries and back and hip problems for 70lbs. anymore. It was beginning to shoot quite nicely at the shop but the bow arm shoulder started to tell me to stop so I stopped. (2 surgeries on that shoulder, I had better listen) I will try to tune it in more this week. My back is not being very nice to me today, hoping that improves as I continue shooting.
I had to shoot from the standing position at the shop but will be shooting from the sitting position when I hunt for the reasons mentioned above and more.
I had picked up the site at a yard sale and the shop owner threw in the drop away rest. I had him take off the Whisker Biscuit and the sight that came with the bow and saved quite a bit doing that as well. I am able to use all my old arrows with the new bow which is nice and saved me a ton of money as well, I was worried they would be spined to heavily for the new bow.
I also picked up some arrows and a string for my old Ben Pearson recurve bow, they are the cabon arrows designed to look like the old wooden arrows.
I was also wondering what peoples thoughts are on the guillotine styled broadheads for turkey hunting? Any brand that works better than another or any brand that has a bad reputation and I should avoid? What kind of fletching should I use with that style of head? Thanks for any help given. Oh would it be wise to use a Flu Flu styled arrow for turkey since I will be shooting at the ground? I am thinking not but though I would ask.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338246806_21c7850599_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jGdF21)IMG_1374 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jGdF21) by Sir-diealot (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91075563@N06/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338246991_21d8a60005_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jGdF5c)IMG_1373 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jGdF5c) by Sir-diealot (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91075563@N06/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338246696_c401018b38_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jGdEZ7)IMG_1375 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jGdEZ7) by Sir-diealot (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91075563@N06/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338402537_328bb61ff2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jGetj2)IMG_1382 (https://flic.kr/p/2jGetj2) by Sir-diealot (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91075563@N06/), on Flickr
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So nobody has used the the guillotine styled broad heads for turkey hunting?
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So nobody has used the the guillotine styled broad heads for turkey hunting?
I have no experience using them but have a good buddy that uses them almost exclusively for turkeys and geese, let me ask him which brand it is that he likes using.
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So nobody has used the the guillotine styled broad heads for turkey hunting?
I have no experience using them but have a good buddy that uses them almost exclusively for turkeys and geese, let me ask him which brand it is that he likes using.
I would appreciate that. I have one of those old fashioned deals that mounts to your bow and has a string that comes out so when it goes through the bird all you have to do is follow the string, but I have been told they are less than perfect. This is what I mean.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50342565772_ef36c2d824_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jGANTW)IMG_1384 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2jGANTW) by Sir-diealot (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91075563@N06/), on Flickr
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Nice looking setup! I have never the guillotine style broadheads, so I can't advise which is better. Here are somethings to consider about them. From what I understand they take a full length arrow...have to keep that big head out away from your sight and in front of the riser of the bow. There were complaints at one time that you needed to use a special adaptor for the quiver if you were going carry the heads mounted on the arrows or you had assemble them when you got to the field(a real PITA in the dark). I guessing that someone has come up with some kind of case to get away from that issue, but it's something else to buy/ carry. Also these head are for head/neck shots only. You will get very little if any penetration on a body shot with them.
As far as fletching goes, just use your normal fletching.
When I used the bow turkeys, I personally didn't want a pass-through. I used a big cut expandable the would "thump" a turkey instead of zinging through them. Shot placement is key on them. The vital area is small and not where you really think it is.
The string tracker that you pictured caused my buddy more trouble than it ever helped. Once, the string got caught on something when he drew the bow, broke and sent the arrow way off target when he shot. Another time he couldn't even get the bow completely drawn because the string wouldn't come out of the holder. The time or two that it did work right, the string would get tangled in the brush as the animal(deer/turkey) ran, then break. If I remember right, it took a special clip or something that you put on behind the broadhead. Which meant that had to nock your arrow, then screw on your broadhead....again a real PITA in the dark.
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Nice looking setup! I have never the guillotine style broadheads, so I can't advise which is better. Here are somethings to consider about them. From what I understand they take a full length arrow...have to keep that big head out away from your sight and in front of the riser of the bow. There were complaints at one time that you needed to use a special adaptor for the quiver if you were going carry the heads mounted on the arrows or you had assemble them when you got to the field(a real PITA in the dark). I guessing that someone has come up with some kind of case to get away from that issue, but it's something else to buy/ carry. Also these head are for head/neck shots only. You will get very little if any penetration on a body shot with them.
As far as fletching goes, just use your normal fletching.
When I used the bow turkeys, I personally didn't want a pass-through. I used a big cut expandable the would "thump" a turkey instead of zinging through them. Shot placement is key on them. The vital area is small and not where you really think it is.
The string tracker that you pictured caused my buddy more trouble than it ever helped. Once, the string got caught on something when he drew the bow, broke and sent the arrow way off target when he shot. Another time he couldn't even get the bow completely drawn because the string wouldn't come out of the holder. The time or two that it did work right, the string would get tangled in the brush as the animal(deer/turkey) ran, then break. If I remember right, it took a special clip or something that you put on behind the broadhead. Which meant that had to nock your arrow, then screw on your broadhead....again a real PITA in the dark.
Thank you for the reply, you are right, there is a special adapter for them to fit in a quiver. Thanks for telling me about the string gadget always thought it must have needed something to attach to the arrow. I would not take a body shot with those, but thank you for letting me know. I chose not to go bow hunting opening day because I did not feel my shot placements were good enough so if I won't go after a deer with a bowl right now I'm not going to do it with a turkey either right now hopefully I'll be able to do it in the spring. Broke my heart not to go out but it's just not worth it to injure an animal I don't ever want to be that kind of Hunter. by the way sorry if some words are messed up I'm using the talk to type feature cuz I can't type on this phone very easily.
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I second ditching the string tracker. Gave mine away. Stopped using it in '99. Use a ground blind and decoys and a chair. This will keep you comfortable. Practice shooting from a chair. Keep shots at ~10 yrds. ,easy to do with decoys. I shoot 50 lbs and use 4 blade expandable heads. Both my birds died in sight this fall. Look at the leg,go up and shoot the upper third. (I aim higher than the photo shows. )(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/e2a113e9b0892829dd2b3984b473d482.jpg)
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i have tried the gobbler guillotines and the magnus bullheads. i would highly recommend the bullheads, i have shot them t a target out to 50 yards and they flew dead on, the guillotines i used had the little straws and i couldn't get them to fly straight past 15 or 20 yards. i dont remember the spine arrow i shot but they had 3 i believe 6 in helical feathers. magnus sells a kit that includes arrow
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I second ditching the string tracker. Gave mine away. Stopped using it in '99. Use a ground blind and decoys and a chair. This will keep you comfortable. Practice shooting from a chair. Keep shots at ~10 yrds. ,easy to do with decoys. I shoot 50 lbs and use 4 blade expandable heads. Both my birds died in sight this fall. Look at the leg,go up and shoot the upper third. (I aim higher than the photo shows. )(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210101/e2a113e9b0892829dd2b3984b473d482.jpg)
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Thank you for the advise. If I do I will not go with the type of broadhead mentioned above I would like to go with a fixed blade broadhead, always felt mechanicals were doomed to failure and after doing some testing against fixed blade vs mechanicals (Both Wasp) I just could not get behind the mechanicals. Of course that was also prior to my car accident in 2001 and I am sure things have improved but something just makes me want to stay with a fixed blade. At least on big game anyway, not sure yet on small game.
i have tried the gobbler guillotines and the magnus bullheads. i would highly recommend the bullheads, i have shot them t a target out to 50 yards and they flew dead on, the guillotines i used had the little straws and i couldn't get them to fly straight past 15 or 20 yards. i dont remember the spine arrow i shot but they had 3 i believe 6 in helical feathers. magnus sells a kit that includes arrow
I need the 350 kit for what I am shooting right now, actually I have to be able to shoot another 5lbs. as they rate them from 50lbs. up. Will they shoot through the screen on a blind or do I need to leave the blind screen down? Thank you for the help.
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i have never tried shooting through the screens, most of the turkeys i have killed with a bow was with a rage mechanical. my favorite shot with a regular broad head is a neck shot. for years i wouldn't body shoot a turkey because i let some get away but the last few that i body shot i changed where i was aiming, i aim a different place than most people, i have had good luck by shooting them through the top of the thighs and they won't be laying far away.
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i have never tried shooting through the screens, most of the turkeys i have killed with a bow was with a rage mechanical. my favorite shot with a regular broad head is a neck shot. for years i wouldn't body shoot a turkey because i let some get away but the last few that i body shot i changed where i was aiming, i aim a different place than most people, i have had good luck by shooting them through the top of the thighs and they won't be laying far away.
Nothing wrong with that if it is working for you. I wish you the best of luck this season and beyond. Thanks for the help.
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I have been shooting Slick Tricks for the past 10 or 12 years. Always shot fixed heads. But any head will get the job done if it's placed right. Owning a bow shop I get to try them all. But if something works I keep using it.
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I have been shooting Slick Tricks for the past 10 or 12 years. Always shot fixed heads. But any head will get the job done if it's placed right. Owning a bow shop I get to try them all. But if something works I keep using it.
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Thank you much for the reply, I decided to order some of the Magnus type heads that will remove the head if I make contact.
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That will work !! Best of luck this coming season !!
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That will work !! Best of luck this coming season !!
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Thanks, have to get to the bow shop to pick them up next week and take care of a squeak my bow picked up with new rest.
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If you're going to shoot the Magnus Bullheads, I highly recommend using the arrows made for them also. You can practice with them by shooting them into a cheap pillow hanging from a stand or branch.
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If you're going to shoot the Magnus Bullheads, I highly recommend using the arrows made for them also. You can practice with them by shooting them into a cheap pillow hanging from a stand or branch.
I have them ordered, have to go pick them up. Thank you much.
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Magnus Bullheads are great. The company also replaced blade free of charge and you will break them. The arrows have the Ethics Archery swivels to allow the heads to spin separately from the arrow and this makes tuning simpler. Great combo.
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Magnus Bullheads are great. The company also replaced blade free of charge and you will break them. The arrows have the Ethics Archery swivels to allow the heads to spin separately from the arrow and this makes tuning simpler. Great combo.
Thank you for the information.
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I would use the Rage Extreme and body shoot them as you don't want a pass-through.
Paper tune your arrow to see how it fly's and get everything set up and tuned.
Toss the string tracker you have in the trash too many headaches and too many problems. I think that model came out 40 years ago and wasn't to effective then!
If you are concerned about finding your arrow in the dirt or in a turkey that may have run a little too far I would use lumenoks.
What type of release are you using?
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I would use the Rage Extreme and body shoot them as you don't want a pass-through.
Paper tune your arrow to see how it fly's and get everything set up and tuned.
Toss the string tracker you have in the trash too many headaches and too many problems. I think that model came out 40 years ago and wasn't to effective then!
If you are concerned about finding your arrow in the dirt or in a turkey that may have run a little too far I would use lumenoks.
What type of release are you using?
I use a Winn Free Flight C-10 Release aid that clicks to the string, I know you will say to use a loop but I can't get the thing in the loop because of eye problems, I end up everywhere but with the release in the loop. I have some Magnus Bullheads arrows and heads now. I am going to bow hunt them this year now though, I am having some issues with my body. I thank you for taking the time to reply though.
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I understand about eye sight issues and a loop isn't for everybody. It gives you a more consistent release but we work with what we know or are comfortable with.
Your release is good, yes there are better but most certainly no need to go out and buy a Stanislawski for 200 to 300 dollars!
Let me know when you get your knees done and how you are making out.
What length arrows are you shooting and spine?
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I understand about eye sight issues and a loop isn't for everybody. It gives you a more consistent release but we work with what we know or are comfortable with.
Your release is good, yes there are better but most certainly no need to go out and buy a Stanislawski for 200 to 300 dollars!
Let me know when you get your knees done and how you are making out.
What length arrows are you shooting and spine?
I have some Easton Axis arrows that are 340gr. that I had with my old bow, I talked with the guy at the bow shop I got the new one from and he said that they would be fine to use which to be honest surprised me as I dropped from shooting 70# then down to 63# with the old bow and am now shooting 45-50#. with the new bow. Both at 29" I also have some PSE arrows that are 300gr. I am using 125 fix blade broadhead (for deer) and 4" or 5" Quick Spin vanes set in a straight helical.
You are absolutely right, the look does allow for a better release but I just can't consistently get the release into it. When I shoot my current release I set my middle finger against the bottom nock and that helps me guide the clip to the string. If I did not have to use distance glasses to see to shoot I would not have a problem getting it on the loop.
Oh I have added a HHA sight and rest since this picture was taken.
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I am looking at the big picture here since you mentioned you will use this bow for deer as well. Grant it you won’t be taking 30 or 40 yard shots at a turkey but you will for a deer depending on you skill set. So why not get the proper arrow to use for both applications.
In general, an under-spined arrow will stray to the right, while an arrow that is too stiff will veer to the left.
The following information is based on an IBO speed of less the 315 FPS. The 300 spine arrows are too light and a 340 would work if your draw length was 31 -32” I would check out a 400 spine arrow. This is based on a shooting a 125 grain Magnus Bullhead.
Adding weight up front can significantly change the dynamic spine of the arrow. For every 25 grains of weight added to the front, it weakens the dynamic spine by approximately 2 ½ lbs.
Remember metal inserts – usually made of brass or aluminum will add overall weight and increase the weight/forward balance of the shaft. These inserts typically weigh between 50 and 75 grains.
I believed you mentioned you had to take your bow to the shop so shoot a 340 spine arrow vs a 400 while there.
The HHA sight and rest is a good addition and will serve you well.
I hope this information came in handy. I hope to see a photo of your bow killed turkey. Good luck to you in all your endeavors!
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I am looking at the big picture here since you mentioned you will use this bow for deer as well. Grant it you won’t be taking 30 or 40 yard shots at a turkey but you will for a deer depending on you skill set. So why not get the proper arrow to use for both applications.
In general, an under-spined arrow will stray to the right, while an arrow that is too stiff will veer to the left.
The following information is based on an IBO speed of less the 315 FPS. The 300 spine arrows are too light and a 340 would work if your draw length was 31 -32” I would check out a 400 spine arrow. This is based on a shooting a 125 grain Magnus Bullhead.
Adding weight up front can significantly change the dynamic spine of the arrow. For every 25 grains of weight added to the front, it weakens the dynamic spine by approximately 2 ½ lbs.
Remember metal inserts – usually made of brass or aluminum will add overall weight and increase the weight/forward balance of the shaft. These inserts typically weigh between 50 and 75 grains.
I believed you mentioned you had to take your bow to the shop so shoot a 340 spine arrow vs a 400 while there.
The HHA sight and rest is a good addition and will serve you well.
I hope this information came in handy. I hope to see a photo of your bow killed turkey. Good luck to you in all your endeavors!
Thank you very much for the information. I will speak with the owner of the shop for sure. My broad head is also 125gr. by the way.