Anybody found a sure fire way or technique they use for face masks with glasses without fogging the glasses up. I haven't committed to facepaint quite yet and I like a gaiter neck type facemask and no matter what I spray on my glasses, they always fog.
I have tried every spray imaginable and mine still fog up. I have tried different facemasks and the Mossy Oak Tibbee Flex Mesh mask is what I use now. It will still occasionally fog but with no fog spray on my glasses, it does pretty well. The only absolutely fog free time I have ever had is with face paint.
I think I've posted about this before. I cut a hole in my mesh mask 1 so I can switch out diaphragms and 2 to allow more air flow out of the mask. Between that and keeping the mask on the bridge of my nose to where there's a little space between the mask and glasses I can mitigate the fogging pretty well. Nothing works 100% it I'm near sighted and have to wear them if I want to shoot much past 10 yards
Here ya go, http://www.hsstrut.com/product/3-4-facemask-edge/
Carbo mask face paint was my solution......... even duck hunting.
I put cat crap pretty heavy on everything optic related.
Over time it works better & better. I build up first with
the paste, then always follow up with the spray. Spraying
often & I usually carry a little bottle in my stuff at all time.
Works great on trail cams too. Inside & out.
Quote from: wyetterp on March 14, 2023, 09:45:35 PM
I put cat crap pretty heavy on everything optic related.
Over time it works better & better. I build up first with
the paste, then always follow up with the spray. Spraying
often & I usually carry a little bottle in my stuff at all time.
Works great on trail cams too. Inside & out.
Good stuff, though I have not tried the paste.
I just ordered a spray made by zeiss on Amazon. It was about 7$ , small enough to fit in your vest, and has pretty good reviews. I will report back in a few weeks.????
Ive used cat crap also with good results.
Quote from: Sir-diealot on March 14, 2023, 10:08:15 PM
Quote from: wyetterp on March 14, 2023, 09:45:35 PM
I put cat crap .
Good stuff, though I have not tried the paste.
The paste is more effective then the spray.
Used together is a good combo. Try some.
I'm a longtime user of "Parker's Perfect" glass cleaner/anti fog spray. Works well for me.
I do keep a small bottle w a paper towel in my shirt pocket for occasional reapplication.
Quote from: wyetterp on March 15, 2023, 10:17:36 PM
Quote from: Sir-diealot on March 14, 2023, 10:08:15 PM
Quote from: wyetterp on March 14, 2023, 09:45:35 PM
I put cat crap .
Good stuff, though I have not tried the paste.
The paste is more effective then the spray.
Used together is a good combo. Try some.
I've used the paste with alil success. Never used both together so that'll be my next approach. I was trying to prevent cutting a hole in my facemask but that's probably going to be the ticket.
Pull the mask down just under the nose - nothing goes up that chimney to your glasses that way - only thing really exposed is nose - wipe it with a bit of paint or mud or with your head on the gun he will never see it- I fight it as well!!
The only thing that comes close to working somewhat is a stiff wire across your nose and cheeks. And to physically cut a hole where your mouth is.
Quote from: TNhunterKMC on March 22, 2023, 01:28:12 PM
The only thing that comes close to working somewhat is a stiff wire across your nose and cheeks. And to physically cut a hole where your mouth is.
Move your glasses away from your face a touch. It allows more air to circulate between your glasses and face helping to remove the condensation.
I just looked at a Nomad gaiter style facemask. Nice and all but $13 to ship a piece of stretch nylon Ill just keep using the old 1.
Quote from: wyetterp on March 15, 2023, 10:17:36 PM
Quote from: Sir-diealot on March 14, 2023, 10:08:15 PM
Quote from: wyetterp on March 14, 2023, 09:45:35 PM
I put cat crap .
Good stuff, though I have not tried the paste.
The paste is more effective then the spray.
Used together is a good combo. Try some.
Added that and a microfiber clothe to my cart.
Eye doc here...
• (Good) Anti-glare coatings tend to fog less than lenses without ant-glare. Cheap anti-glare coatings may fog more than no anti-glare coatings.
• Anti-fog sprays help (about 30%).
• Mouth-breathing is NOT your friend here.
• Most important thing is to make sure the mask is tucked under the glasses though. Nose-piece of my glasses is resting on the mask...
Quote from: Marc on March 26, 2023, 07:31:19 PM
Eye doc here...
• (Good) Anti-glare coatings tend to fog less than lenses without ant-glare. Cheap anti-glare coatings may fog more than no anti-glare coatings.
• Anti-fog sprays help (about 30%).
• Mouth-breathing is NOT your friend here.
• Most important thing is to make sure the mask is tucked under the glasses though. Nose-piece of my glasses is resting on the mask...
Thanks for the advise, getting ready to go get exam on Friday, I plan to get the ultra lite or maybe they call them feather lite lenses with I think it would be called transitions and I can't get anti glare with those as I seem to recall. Is there a big difference between glass and plastic (Maybe synthetic would be a better term?) in how much they fog? I always get the synthetic as glass weighs so much for my prescription. Thanks.
Quote from: Sir-diealot on March 26, 2023, 07:46:16 PM
Thanks for the advise, getting ready to go get exam on Friday, I plan to get the ultra lite or maybe they call them feather lite lenses with I think it would be called transitions and I can't get anti glare with those as I seem to recall. Is there a big difference between glass and plastic (Maybe synthetic would be a better term?) in how much they fog? I always get the synthetic as glass weighs so much for my prescription. Thanks.
You can get anti-glare (AR) on any lenses... Just as with any optics, the higher quality costs more. Big-chain stores tend to sell lower quality coatings (with no choices). Private docs generally have some choices, but the better AR coatings cost more. Mine are all warranted for a year against scratching. I no longer offer the poorer coatings and give patients a choice between medium and higher quality (too many issues with patient dissatisfaction on lower quality).
Transitions (or more properly photochromic) lenses actually work better with an anti-glare (AR) coating. Transitions get darker based on UV exposure. Lots of choices now. You can get lenses that change faster but do not get as dark, or lenses that get really dark but do not change quickly. Grey color gets darker, brown offers more contrast. For straight polarized lenses I go with brown or copper (for contrast) but for photochromic my choice is grey.
Materials:
Glass – best optical quality, thickest/heaviest, and can shatter. Difficult to deal with, and quite expensive.
Standard Plastic (CR-39) good optical quality but thicker.
Polycarbonate- thinner, lighter (than CR-39), UV protection and impact resistant, but poor optical quality and scratch easier
Trivex similar to Polycarbonate but much better optical quality and scratch resistant. Best impact resistant lenses.
High Index is thinner and lighter than any of the lenses with good optical quality. AR coatings really add to that optical quality.
Anti-glare adds to the optical quality of almost all lens materials... I do not recommend it for glass though.
Quote from: Marc on March 27, 2023, 01:34:31 AM
Quote from: Sir-diealot on March 26, 2023, 07:46:16 PM
Thanks for the advise, getting ready to go get exam on Friday, I plan to get the ultra lite or maybe they call them feather lite lenses with I think it would be called transitions and I can't get anti glare with those as I seem to recall. Is there a big difference between glass and plastic (Maybe synthetic would be a better term?) in how much they fog? I always get the synthetic as glass weighs so much for my prescription. Thanks.
You can get anti-glare (AR) on any lenses... Just as with any optics, the higher quality costs more. Big-chain stores tend to sell lower quality coatings (with no choices). Private docs generally have some choices, but the better AR coatings cost more. Mine are all warranted for a year against scratching. I no longer offer the poorer coatings and give patients a choice between medium and higher quality (too many issues with patient dissatisfaction on lower quality).
Transitions (or more properly photochromic) lenses actually work better with an anti-glare (AR) coating. Transitions get darker based on UV exposure. Lots of choices now. You can get lenses that change faster but do not get as dark, or lenses that get really dark but do not change quickly. Grey color gets darker, brown offers more contrast. For straight polarized lenses I go with brown or copper (for contrast) but for photochromic my choice is grey.
Materials:
Glass – best optical quality, thickest/heaviest, and can shatter. Difficult to deal with, and quite expensive.
Standard Plastic (CR-39) good optical quality but thicker.
Polycarbonate- thinner, lighter (than CR-39), UV protection and impact resistant, but poor optical quality and scratch easier
Trivex similar to Polycarbonate but much better optical quality and scratch resistant. Best impact resistant lenses.
High Index is thinner and lighter than any of the lenses with good optical quality. AR coatings really add to that optical quality.
Anti-glare adds to the optical quality of almost all lens materials... I do not recommend it for glass though.
Thank you very much for that, better information than I normally get. With my glasses I tend to spend more than I can really afford but it is worth it in the long run I think. I am going to get a set of amber UV blocking lenses before next winter for driving. Just have to get used to all the blues looking black. You have me thinking of changing to brown lenses instead of gray, may help with hunting by the sounds, just wonder if they would mess up how I see things for my photography?